Now that 2021 is over and we are starting a new year, we all come across new goals and purposes. Starting to eat healthier, adopt new habits towards a more conscious and sustainable living, learning a new language, or shopping more ethically!
Even though sometimes it can be hard to know where to start and how to make it part of our routines, that doesn't mean it can't be done.
This is why we want to start 2022 with a brief guide on how to shop in a more sustainable way this year. Today we will review some simple and fundamental concepts, and we will introduce you to 3 simple questions that will help you shop more ethically.
Simply put, ethical shopping means buying products made without exploiting people, animals, or anything that has a negative impact on our natural resources.
However, shopping ethically means a lot more and includes reducing, reusing, and recycling what you consume.
We know shopping ethically sometimes can be confusing, but be aware that by doing it, you will not be supporting forced labor or any kind of exploitation involved to produce the products you buy. And by doing this, you get to contribute positively to important causes like fighting human trafficking, fair wages, or gender equality
Shopping ethically also means you will treasure each product you purchase because you will know who made it and the story behind it.
Shopping ethically gets easier as times evolve and it is way more straightforward than you ever imagined. To help you shop more ethically this and in the coming years, here there are three questions you should ask yourself before shopping for anything:
Do I really need it?
Sometimes we buy unnecessary things, that is a fact. This is why we need to keep asking ourselves, do I really need this? Is there a better low-consumption alternative?
By reducing our consumption, we can save money, but also we can help save the planet.
If you are sure that you definitely need to buy something, go to question two and make sure you measure your impact!
Is this the most ethical option?
Today it is easy to find ethical options to acquire almost any kind of thing. From clothes to food, to travel opportunities and even phones.
There is always an ethical brand out there waiting for you to discover it! Do your homework, spend some time researching the line of products you want, check your options and make a conscious choice.
For example, if you need to renew your wardrobe, you should check Huaywasi, our fair trade social enterprise project for ethical (and super cute) clothing products.
But hey, before buying anything, you should always go to question three and reassure yourself you are going for the most ethical option.
Can I recycle it?
It doesn't really matter if you either make it yourself or buy it second-hand, but by giving your clothes, furniture, and others a second life, you also give the planet a break.
There are always flea markets or charity shops around to check for what you are looking for and if that doesn't work, remember fixing, up-cycling, and reusing is what cool kids do. Get creative and make it yourself!
We wish you a great, ethical new year, and we hope you continue to be part of this family.
In 2022, as every year since Huaywasi was founded, we promise you to continue to operate ethically, become more sustainable, and help you do so.
Make sure you follow Huaywasi on our social media and subscribe to our newsletter, so you don’t miss any news and discounts! And be ready for more blogs about fashion, sustainability, Peru, and more!
By Irene Parra, Communications and Development Manager at LLI, Guest Writer
]]>The truth is that Black Friday is a date for consumerism, and sometimes our impact can be harmful if we do not think about what we invest our money in.
]]>Let's get into the very basics about Black Friday and small fair trade brands like Huaywasi!
With all the controversies surrounding Black Friday, we sometimes wonder if it is good to buy from a fair trade brand on these dates.
Is it a good moment? Are these discounts fair? Should I wait for another date?
All these questions are valid. The truth is that Black Friday is a date for consumerism, and sometimes our impact can be harmful if we do not think about what we invest our money in.
However, this day is as good as any to support a fair trade brand since they measure the impact of their discounts, and these won't affect the salary received by their artisans and workers.
For example, at Huaywasi we have launched a campaign this Black Friday with discounts of up to 40%. Our artisans, however, will not see this discount reflected, or any other, in the salary received for their work. That's what fair trade is all about!
Competing with big brands' promotions and marketing campaigns is a challenge that many fair trade businesses cannot face. However, we have a lot of supporters who help us keep the business going and who buy our products these holidays and many other days.
For example, thanks to your support, and despite the harsh crisis we have faced during 2020, this 2021, we have managed to start working with all of our artisan partners again. And although production is still limited, they are all receiving a monthly income again, which is excellent.
Of course, this won't be possible if you only buy Huaywasi on Black Friday, and this is why we encourage you to continue supporting our brand and any other fair-trade business throughout the year.
On the other hand, if you rather not make any purchases during this Black Friday, here are some other ways to support your favorite fair-trade brands:
Everything counts!
]]>Staying fashionable comes at a cost, but the cost should not be the environment. The fashion industry is a huge polluting industry on the environment and it is rumored to be the 2nd most polluting industry, however this reporter dug into that rumor and revealed there’s not a lot of facts to back up that statistic so readily thrown around. Whether it is the 2nd most polluting industry or the 20th, we still know there are changes that can and should be made to reduce the harmful impact on the environment.
One of the polluting factors is how much water is used in growing plants like cotton to make apparel. According to World Wide Life (WWF), it takes 2,700 gallons of water to produce enough cotton for one single T-shirt. One the other hand, Flaxseed - which is used to make linen - only needs about 600mm of water for the entire growing cycle.
As much as we here at Huaywasi love linen for sustainability purposes, that’s not the only reason it should be loved - and it definitely should be loved more! There are so many cool features in linen that will make you almost too excited about a fabric, if that’s even possible. The material is naturally moisture wicking and conducts heat away from the body, so it is the perfect fabric to wear in the summer to keep you looking and feeling ~cool~.
When we think of organic and natural materials, people tend to think that they will be itchy and uncomfortable - but we are here to tell you otherwise! Linen actually becomes more comfortable the more you wash/wear it and it isn’t too complicated to take care of. It can be washed in the washing machine on cold (it can tend to shrink in warmer water) and put in the dryer on low heat - but you may want to take it out a little early and let it air dry the rest of the way so it doesn’t become too stiff.
Linen is such an interesting fabric that it makes you think, ok what’s the catch? There’s got to be something wrong with it, everything has flaws. However, the list of flaws is surprisingly really short, especially when compared to the long list of strengths.
The only downside of linen we could find is that it does wrinkle rather easily, but you can either embrace the wrinkles in a casual look, or iron it on medium-hot steam settings (make sure the fabric is damp however!).
Linen also has natural antibacterial properties, which is why it was used for bandages for centuries; this doesn’t super affect wearing it as regular clothing, but it does make you feel more clean.
Linen has already won the sustainable debate with cotton, but to really hit it home, linen is also 2-3 times stronger than cotton and dries much faster. Flaxseed also has the shortest growing period of 100 days between sowing and harvesting, so it is made quickly and needs minimal water. Depending on the climate of the growing area, the rain/dew will take care of that and you wouldn’t need to water it with anything else! For this reason, and many others, linen is said to be the most eco-friendly natural fiber.
As an ethically conscious company, we are always striving to become more environmentally sustainable and the first step we are taking is using more linen in our fashion lines. A few of our current linen favorites include the Abi Bell Pants, Vanessa Tank, and the Lily Jumpsuit.
The Abi Bell Pants are made out of 100% linen and have Tela Andina detailing that radiate Peruvian vibes. These breathable baggy pants can be dressed up or down to make them the perfect for many summer occasions!
Our Vanessa Tank is a gorgeous linen-polyester blend with crossed Tela Andina “cintas” that accentuate your back. This tank can be tucked in for a perfect summer work top, or left out to flow in the breeze for a beach day!
Lastly, the Lily Jumpsuit is an elegant outfit fit for a summer night out! With upcycled Tela Andina straps, each jumpsuit is 100% unique and just for you!
Each of these pieces are made with either 100% linen or a linen/polyester blend and give off Peruvian vibes with unique Tela Andina detailing. Aside from looking cute, each of these pieces are also super comfortable and can be dressed up or down for nearly any occasion!
Linen is really the superior natural fiber and is definitely under appreciated. Using more linen is just the beginning of Huaywasi’s journey towards sustainability. We are so excited to see where this journey takes us and hope you all follow along to see the great things Huaywasi does in the future!
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Written by: Nicolette Gaboriault-Whitcomb
]]>Pride Month events draw millions of people around the world every year and Peru is certainly no exception. At the end of June and through the beginning of July, members and allies of the LGBTQIA+ community go out to the streets of major cities to celebrate love, diversity, acceptance, and unashamed pride. “Marchas del Orgullo” are Pride Parades held in several major cities such as Lima, Huancayo, Ica, Tarapoto, and Trujillo.
Although the nation has made significant strides towards equality over the years, the Peruvian Constitution continues to define marriage as a union between man and woman. Same-sex marriage is not yet possible in Peru although it is likely on the horizon and they do recognize marriages performed abroad. Prominent representatives, politicians, and advocates such as Luisa Revilla Urcia and Carlos Bruce, have been fighting desperately for this much needed change.
Luisa Revilla Urcia is a politician in the northwestern province of Trujillo and on October 5, 2014, she became the first out transgender person elected to public office in the generally conservative country. Luisa stated, “I am going to promote equality and I will say no to discrimination. We want everyone to have equal access, to succeed and to achieve their goals. When there is no discrimination, there is pacification. Infrastructure and modernity is important, but promoting values and showing concern for the people matters even more.”
Carlos Bruce became the country’s first openly gay congressman in May 2014. Although he did not succeed, Carlos Bruce aimed to reform legislature to allow civil unions for same-sex couples as well as pass anti-discrimination laws. While opponents argued that his sexuality was a conflict of interest, Bruce optimistically told supporters, “The fact that the world is moving forward helps. Our country will also soon move forward.”
While the Peruvian government continues to hold its conservative stance despite advocacy from politicians, other organizations have been leading the way to help serve the community. PROMSEX is a feminist NGO that through advocacy, knowledge, generation and alliances, helps people understand sexuality and reproduction autonomy, dignity, justice and equality.
PROMSEX inspires feminist leadership at the local, national, and regional levels to have the capacty for innovation and to strengthen inclusive alliances for political public advocacy on Sexual Rights and Reproductive Rights. In 2019, PROMSEX established a five year path that aims to find a fairer society for everyone, free from gender stereotypes and prejudices by developing clearly defined lines of intervention and indicators.
These strategic areas of change have a universal goal of uniting the Peruvian nation at the societal, public, and individual levels by 2024 and with the help of every business, organization, and individual, this could very well be a possibility as the country continues to strive towards equality.
]]>This Earth Month, we believe it’s important now more than ever to continue supporting Latinx brands making strides towards a sustainable future!
]]>This Earth Month, we here at Huaywasi believe it’s important now more than ever to continue supporting Latinx brands making strides towards a sustainable future. Specifically, we want to focus on Latinx-owned sustainable fashion brands that are paving the way for a fair and inclusive fashion industry.
ALL FOR RAMON - Founded by Mexican-American sisters, Rocio Chavez and Diana Ibarria who are proud daughters of immigrants that are breaking barriers in the fashion industry. After witnessing first hand the amount of waste fashion creates, they felt compelled to make a change and are committed to eco-minded craftsmanship, ethical manufacturing, conservation of natural resources, and employee wellness.
BLOSSOM INSPIRATIONS - Founded on the idea of mutually benefiting everyone involved in the production process of their eco-friendly, fair trade products. They work directly with artisans in Mexico and Peru to produce products that positively impact the makers, wholesalers, retailers, consumers, and environment.
FRESA THRIFT - Online vintage shop run by born and raised Texas Chica, Anisa Gutierrez. Fresa Thrift offers fun curated vintage clothing, accessories, home decor, and more! Latina owned and operated, thrifting really runs through her veins.
GAY PRIDE APPAREL - Founded by Jesus and Sergio, Gay Pride Apparel is a first generation Mexican-American & LGBTQ+ owned brand focused on empowerment, pride, and authenticity for year-round pride. They are on a mission to create a community of proud humans by producing high quality & ethically-made products that represent almost all identities within the LGBTQ+ community.
GOLDEN PONIES - A slow fashion, made to order brand that creates sustainable luxury shoes, clothing, and accessories all made with vegan materials. Based in Guadalajara, Mexico, Golden Ponies does not have a warehouse or stock, they only manufacture what customers order and everything is crafted in small limited batches.
GRL COLLECTIVE - A Latina founded lifestyle brand that donates 20% of profits to fund girls education in India through their non-profit partners, The Sambhali Trust. GRL Collective designs all of their products and believes in ethical, sustainable, and fair-trade practices when it comes to manufacturing.
HIJA DE TU MADRE - Founded and designed by Patty Delgado, Hija de tu Madre celebrates the beautiful mess that is being Latina and Latinx with each product inspired by her cultural crossroads. Their goal is to create fashionable statements of identity that depict cultural intersection and is an ode to those who are unapologetically Latinx.
JEN ZEANO DESIGNS - JZD is a South Texas based lifestyle brand that believes in kindness, girl power, Latina magic, and celebrating every tiny victory. Their main goal is to create products that make you feel proud of who you are and advocate peace, love, and equality.
LATINA MADE NOT MAID - A registered 501(c) working towards changing stereotypes and celebrating diversity. Their mission is to globally educate and encourage everyone to positively share in the beauty of Latinx diversity by changing stereotypes, investing in education, and supporting the community.
PERALTA PROJECT - Founded and designed by first generation Dominican, M. Tony Peralta is a contemporary artist known for his fusion of pop art aesthetics, cultural iconography, and vibrant hues. Through screen printing, painting, and mixed media techniques, Peralta has paid homage to his heritage, showcased the stigma of Blackness in Dominican identity and tipped his hat to the golden age of hip-hop.
RAGGEDYTIFF - Founded by Jessica Resendiz who was born in Queretaro, Mexico, RAGGEDYTIFF is a brand bloomed by her Mexican roots. Specializing in apparel, accessories, stationary, and home decor, RAGGEDYTIFF is known for vibrant illustrations, sewing techniques, craftsmanship & exquisite one of a kind detailed pieces.
SALVAGE MARIA - Founded by Janeesa Maria and based in Los Angeles, Salvage Maria handmakes face masks, blankets, pet beds, and more. Maria, the mother of Janeesa, travels Mexico to source their traditional textiles and build direct relationships with artisans. Every scrap is used and saved for future inspiration, ensuring nothing goes to waste at Salvage Maria!
SELVA NEGRA - Rooted in the use of ethical practices and committed to ethically sourcing materials, transparency in production, and zero-waste packaging. Selva Negra is founded by Kristen Gonzalez and Sam Romero and they aim to express design through their Latina heritage.
SPANGLISH THREADZ - Founded by Ana and Mario who were inspired by their three kids, Spanglish Threadz is a family run business based in Texas. They design and print shirts with a unique way of incorporating characteristics of latinx culture with a funny little twist.
WASI CLOTHING - We’ve mentioned WASI Clothing before and we’ll continue mentioning them because WASI continues to be an amazing leader in the sustainable fashion industry. ‘Wasi’ is a Quechuan word that means ‘home’ (just like Huaywasi!) and WASI’s mission is to put Bolivian culture on the map as well as elevating and creating a safe home for people of color and allies to shop.
WOVEN FUTURES - A Latinx women-owned company based out of the United States and Guatemala that is on a mission to connect local artisans to the fashion industry and fight the toxic processes. Woven Futures is a slow fashion brand that celebrates Latin America’s artisans and vibrant textile culture through timeless designs that respect people and the planet.
Last but not least, we want to highlight our very own ethical fashion brand, Huaywasi: Handmade in Peru! Founded in 2016, Huaywasi (why-wasi) is an extension of the Light and Leadership Initiative and 100% of our profits are reinvested into LLI’s free community education programs in Huaycan, Peru. All products are handmade with love by female artisan partners in Huaycan and artisans are always paid fair wages, receive financial education, and work from the comfort of their own homes.
To celebrate and conclude March being Women’s History Month, we want to acknowledge some of the many incredible women throughout Peru’s history!
]]>To celebrate and conclude March being Women’s History Month, we want to acknowledge some of the many incredible women throughout Peru’s history! Although some people might disagree, Peru is often described as a patriarchal society and men receive preferred treatment in almost all aspects of society.
Traditionally in Peru, men and women have occupied very different labor roles but the lines are slowly being blurred as more women gain access to training and formal education. Despite all the obstacles Peruvian women have faced, they have continued to fight and protest for equal rights and the nation would not be the same had it not been for the impact of these women.
Aracely Quispe Neira - Peruvian astronautics engineer who was the first Latin American to command three missions in NASA. Aracely is an official speaker of NASA and the United States Department of State, where she has been recognized for her efforts in space as well as the social field because she has led many projects supporting young people to pursue scientific careers.
Cindy Arlette Contreras Bautista - Peruvian lawyer and advocate for women. As a survivor of domestic violence, she has used her story to greatly increase social and political awareness in Peru about women’s rights and violence based on gender.
Luisa Revilla Urcia - Politician in the northwestern province of Trujillo and a LGBTQIA+ rights advocate. On October 5, 2014 she became the first out transgender person elected to public office in the generally conservative country. Luisa stated, “I am going to promote equality and I will say no to discrimination. We want everyone to have equal access, to succeed and to achieve their goals.”
Mariana Costa Checa - Co-founder and CEO at Laboratoria, a social enterprise working to equip young women in underserved Latin American communities with the skills they need to build successful careers in the tech industry. Mariana has been recognized multiple times for her work as a social entrepreneur including being named by MIT as one of Peru’s leading innovators under 35.
Renata Flores Rivera - Peruvian Quechua singer and rapper who is a singer, composer, and activist aiming to preserve the native language and cultural customs by singing in Quechua. Renata has gained an incredible amount of following and support on YouTube and she continues to challenge her audience to preserve the indigenous culture and language and end the cycle of generational trauma.
Maria Reiche - Although she was born in Germany and didn’t settle in Peru until she was 36, no one doubts that Maria Reiche is Peruvian. As a great archaeologist and mathematician, she made enormous contributions to the studies of the Nazca lines and is now known as the “Lady of the Lines.”
Roxana Quispe Collantes - A doctoral student who made history by becoming the first person to write and defend a thesis in the Incan language, Quechua. Roxana said, “My greatest wish is for Quechua to become a necessity once again. Only by speaking it can we revive it.”
Tatiana Espinosa - Peruvian forestry engineer who co-created Arbio Peru, a non-profit seeking to implement conservation actions with the participation of civil society and the private sector. Her contributions and efforts made her the first Latin American to be recognized with the Jane Goodall Hope and Inspiration Ranger Award.
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We want to give a big thank you to these women (and so many more) that have paved the way for future generations of women to come. Without these historical contributions, Peru, and the rest of the world, would not look the same as it does today.
]]>It is important now more than ever to continue to learn and reflect on the historical contributions that BIPOC have continued to make. As a small ethical fashion brand, we want to focus specifically on those in the fashion industry.
Make no mistake, the fashion industry has a deep rooted relationship with racism. As consumers are now not only beginning to question the industry’s standards, they are also demanding change by simply boycotting companies with unethical practices. We need to take a deep look at the history of black fashion as well as black fashion designers and brands that have continued to lead the way.
The Black in Fashion Council is an organization that aims to include all groups of people in the fashion industry, ranging from models to media executives so they can work together to build a new foundation for inclusivity. On their website, they state, “As an industry we cannot continue to claim that we are progressive if we are not working to force diversity and inclusion in corporate structures while rectifying systemically racist policies that have permeated our industry for hundreds of years.”
There is no denying that there is disproportionate success amongst non-BIPOC designers compared to BIPOC counterparts. A L’Officiel article written by Alexa Hempel and Ryan Norville explains, “Black ideas and culture are often watered-down and re-packaged by non-marginalized groups, and it is no secret that the fashion industry has been the culprit of such cultural appropriation.” At Huaywasi, we believe that the process to start these necessary changes in the industry begins with education.
Cultural appropriation is defined as the use of objects or elements of a non-dominant culture in a way that does not respect their original meaning, give credit to their source, reinforces stereotypes, or contributes to oppression. The fashion industry is littered with cases of cultural appropriation. A few key examples include:
Brands continuously sending (mostly) white models down the runways in hairstyles and designs inspired by BIPOC culture and these are often the very same styles they have been discriminated against.
The industry is guilty of creating trends out of “new” looks that BIPOC have worn for generations and many non-BIPOC are profiting off this
Beauty and fashion trends can be described as ‘ghetto’ or ‘ratchet’ when BIPOC wear them but are deemed ‘high fashion’ or ‘trendy’ when they’re on a more privileged person
The term ‘blackfishing’ was derived by Journalist Wanna Thompson in response to the countless designers, brands, and individuals who take advantage of BIPOC culture and fashion. Blackfishing is used when things that have cultural significance to BIPOC, such as hairstyles, are appropriated to create and enhance certain features, making it appear as if they have black heritage or are racially ambiguous.
The biggest issue of blackfishing in terms of cutlural appropriation is that it allows non-POC to pick and choose the “cool” parts of being black, without facing any of the discrimination that BIPOC do. Thompson said, “Be it fashion, beauty or music. Black is cool, unless you’re actually black.”
Rather than looking at these facts pessimistically, we can look at these unfortunate realities as opportunities to lead us to future growth. Organizations and leaders such as The Fashion and Race Database, an “online platform filled with open-source tools that expand the narrative of fashion history and challenge mis-representation within the fashion system” are continuing to pave the way towards a fair fashion industry for all.
Additionally, instead of focusing on the brands that need to be doing better, we are going to focus on the brands that already are. Here are 5 BIPOC-owned ethical fashion brands that are focusing on cultural appreciation rather than appropriation.
WASI CLOTHING - A brown owned Bolivian-American business run entirely by Vanessa Acosta. ‘Wasi’ is a Quechuan word that means ‘home’ (just like Huaywasi!) and WASI Clothing’s mission is to put Bolivian culture on the map as well as elevating and creating a safe home for people of color and allies to shop.
Being a Woman of color herself, Vanessa started WASI after experiencing firsthand the toxic atmosphere of the fashion industry. Her business aims to be ethical, sustainable, diverse, and representative of many underrepresented folks. To respect the culture and traditions of these designs, all textiles are personally sourced from South America and handmade from scratch in Los Angeles by Vanessa herself!
SINDISO KHUMALO - A sustainable and ethical fashion brand founded by Sindiso Khumalo that focuses on creating modern sustainable textiles with a strong emphasis on African storytelling. Sindiso designs all textiles by hand through watercolors and collage and over the years she has developed a uniquely colorful visual voice which draws upon her Zulu and Ndebele heritage.
Working closely with local NGO’s that develop Sindiso’s textiles, sustainability, craft and empowerment lie at the heart of her label.
YELLOWTAIL - A Native American owned and operated fashion brand and retailer that specializes in storytelling through wearable art. Designed by Bethany Yellowtail, culture and tradition are at the heart of B. YELLOWTAIL and they have set out to share authentic Indigenous creativity with the world while prioritizing economic opportunities.
Not only does Bethany advocate for social justice and provide fair employment for dozens of artists, “In a world where indigenous images are often stolen and misappropriated, Bethany serves as an unapologetic arbiter of authenticity; a genuine voice who seeks to empower through design and representation.”
THE FOLKLORE - An innovative online retail brand that stocks high-end and emerging designer brands from Africa and the diaspora. ‘The Folklore’ serves as a cultural hub for contemporary brands, artists, and creatives to showcase their personal stories and reflect on the diversity of Africa’s contemporary urban landscapes and design aesthetic.
In addition to operating as an online store, The Folklore provides wholesale services that helps enhance the visibility and financial success of Africa’s garment industry by exposing a global customer base to these exclusive styles and designers.
KENNETH IZE - A luxury brand that focuses on reinterpreting examples of Nigerian craft to create an original perspective on luxury production within the fashion industry. They support a variety of artisans, weavers, and designers across Nigeria and are devoted to the long established traditions of Nigerian craft and local artisanship. Kenneth Ize strongly believes in exploring and nurturing existing cultures while merging in new design aesthetics.
]]>In Peru, the production of textiles is considered one of the most ancient expressions of pre-hispanic art. The deep history and culture of Peruvian artistic production relies heavily on textile artifacts and on the loom.
It is said that “perhaps no other society in history poured as much cultural energy into textiles as indigenous Andean civilization.” The centrality of fiber art to the Andean mind resulted in a remarkable development of skills, design and techniques that are unmatched anywhere in the world.
Over time these techniques have evolved greatly including the now popular textile, tela andina, which is a traditional Andean woven fabric. A lot of our products, specifically those made by our Accessories Expert, Herminia, feature hints of tela andina to add the perfect Peruvian twist to our timeless pieces.
There would be no tela andina without the loom! This tool was implemented in Peru around 1400 BC, and from that point on, many different cultures in Peru, such as Chavin, Wari, Nasca, and later Inca, started to produce their textiles by weaving, rather than doing it directly by hand. Each community has their own specific techniques, materials, colors, and patterns reflecting their cosmology, spirituality, and ethnic and regional belonging. Weaving could be done using different kinds of looms which we will begin to explore in this blog post!
Amongst different Peruvian communities, woven fabrics and clothes carried important values linked to social and economic relations. They signaled class and status through the intricacy of patterns, the refinement of materials, and the chosen colors.
Textiles were used as valued gifts and due tributes to nobility and were essential elements of religious sites, ceremonies and funerary art. Some shrines were even specifically devoted to the activities of weaving and spinning and were worshipped by specialized craftsmen who would offer tributes in the shape of small tools used in the production process.
Although textile practices varied depending on the Peruvian region and community, there is evidence that generally men and women alike could specialize in weaving. Under Incan control, there wasn’t a strict distinction of tasks and both male and female weavers were considered as bearers of an exclusive knowledge and masters of a skill.
Before we get into the variations in Peruvian weaving, we want to explain the difference between the 2 essential features of woven textiles: the weft and the warp. These are the two sets of threads that intersect perpendicularly and thus form the texture of each fabric, with the weft running horizontally and the warp vertically.
The warp threads are considered ‘passive’ as they form the skeleton of the fabric onto which the weaver inserts the weft. The weft threads are considered ‘active’ because they create the patterns and designs of the finished woven textile.
The heddle is an important element of the loom that consists of a bar tied to some warp threads to maintain them in order and open for the passage of the weft. When using a loom to weave, the heddle is what makes the process go significantly faster, easier, and neater.
Now that you have a basic understanding of the main elements of weaving and the loom, we can dive into the differences of the specific looms!
1) An early type of loom used in Peru was the telar de cintura or kallwa, however it has many names between the different varieties of Peruvian indigenous languages. This loom was the most widespread and commonly used throughout South American countries and it has now become an important folkloristic element of Peruvian culture.
In the kallwa, the warp (remember this is the vertical thread), is straightened and secured to two sticks at opposite ends. One end can be hung to a tree branch or beam in the ground and the other, supported by a strap, is fastened to the waist of the weaver who can then regulate the tension of the warp through their body.
The structure of this loom is almost non-existent because it is formed solely by the two opposite ends of the stick and one or two heddle bars. This makes it extremely portable and easy to carry everywhere. Typically the fabrics produced from this technique were destined to men, such as unkus, a type of tunic, mantels and girdles.
2) Another pre-hispanic loom is the telar de cuatro estacas (four-peg loom) or ‘pampa away’ which in Quechua means ‘to weave on flat land.’ Unlike the kallwa, its structure and warp tension are fixed because it consists of four stakes nailed to the ground, their distance dependent on the desired width of the fabric.
3) Unlike the previous two looms we mentioned, the vertical loom was in an upright position beside a wall. It was formed by either a top and a bottom stick suspended by two rods or just by a top stick and some stone weights at the end that kept the warp stretched.
This type of loom made it possible to weave much wider pieces of fabric, also because more people were able to weave the same piece of cloth simultaneously with a supplementary frame. Weavers would start at the bottom in a seated or kneeling position and would conclude standing up.
Just like with the four peg loom, this can be set to any desired width and it was mainly used in the Wari community to produce fine tapestry tunics.
4) The treadle loom was first introduced in Peru in the 1500s and 1600s when Spain held control of the country. This alternative allowed the confection of fabric on a bigger scale as fabric was able to be produced by the meter.
Its introduction paved the way to the industrialization of textile production in Peru along with the rise of the obrajes. These were big manufacturing plants that could have up to 40 looms and executed all stages of production of cloth, not just weaving but also dyeing, carding, spinning, fulling and finishing.
Here’s just a glimpse of Peruvian textile culture ! …. If you want to learn more about Peruvian textile practices we invite you to visit the Amano Pre-Columbian Textile Museum in Lima and its digital exhibitions on Google Arts & Culture!
Written by Flora Ferrara - Huaywasi Artisan Storytelling Intern
]]>We previously analyzed the effects COVID-19 has had on the nation of Peru and explored a fair trade silver lining found in an ethical food distribution system in rural Andean villages. Check out that blog here to learn more about the hardships the country faced and the organizations that are constantly striving to better the lives of others.
Huaycán is an urban community in the suburbs of Lima, Peru, located in Ate District which is about 15 km east of Lima. Huaycán is home to thousands of immigrant settlers from various parts of Peru that are looking to improve their standard of living and reach job opportunities in Lima.
Like many communities in Peru, Huaycán was founded as a result of a land invasion in the 1980s. During this time, attacks from The Shining Path terrorist group forced many people living in the highlands to seek refuge in Lima.
Given the current situation all around the world, we have all had to adjust to the new “normal” but as we know, this is a lot more challenging in developing communities, and Huaycan is certainly no exception.
Peru went into a strict and sudden lockdown to prevent the spread of the coronavirus on March 16th, 2020 and nothing has been the same since. While the majority of our team members were forced to return to their home countries, LLI management and Huaywasi artisans have still been in Huaycan.
When Irene, LLI’s Communication & Development Manager, was asked what’s changed from March until now, this was her response:
“I think everything and nothing has changed since March. At the beginning Peru was being super restrictive and no one was allowed to go out of their homes. It was very scary to walk around La Quince (main street in Huaycan that is usually crowded with people) with literally no one on the street but us. Letting go of the volunteers was super hard. From having a team on the ground, supporting each other, it suddenly became just me. I am used to it now, but it has been a complete change!”
Irene, LLI’s Communication & Development Manager
Irene also noted that because 70% of Peruvians have informal jobs, this means they rely on their day to day work, and being locked down for so long has put many families at risk. Unfortunately the pandemic hasn’t been the only concern as many people are facing job insecurity and are struggling to put food on the table during these increasingly tough times.
Irene stated, “These circumstances merge into Huaycan. So you can imagine how hard it has been for so many families. This community is super resilient and has developed their own ways to survive, not only this time, but many before. Hopefully the situation will improve soon and Huaycan can breath again.”
Yeni, LLI’s Education Manager, was suddenly forced to adapt to online learning and the challenges that come with teaching remotely. A lot of families in Huaycan lack access to laptops so Yeni, being the resilient and hard worker that she is, created coursework to send to students via Whatsapp. This is what she had to say about adjusting to the new normal:
“My work has definitely changed a lot because I’m not training volunteers, visiting classes, or doing lesson plan reviews with teachers. Now, I am working remotely preparing video/text lessons for the kids with the help of some remote volunteers in the programs that I need help with. The materials are being sent through Whatsapp groups and then I wait for the students to send back their tasks to receive feedback from me. Most of the time, I communicate with the kids directly rather than their parents because I want them to hear my voice or see my messages/videos when congratulating them or giving feedback on assignments. Of course I also want to listen to them and hear their voice or see their messages.”
Yeni, LLI’s Education Manager
Yeni is constantly busy organizing new educational programs for the kids in Huaycan, but during her free time, she has been watching tv series, exercising, and practicing her English! The biggest takeaways she has gotten from this situation is “I learned to be empathetic with others because I have seen many people who really needed help to survive and not pass away from hunger. I also learned to appreciate, love and care for my family because I do not know when they might pass away, not only with COVID-19, but in any circumstances.”
On the Huaywasi side of LLI, things have also been looking a lot different, but we are doing the best we can given all that is going on. Besides Huaywasi artisans, the rest of our team has all been working together remotely and Irene has so graciously been helping us with Huaywasi’s office operations.
Elena, Huaywasi’s Head Seamstress, stated, “La cuarentena en Huaycán ha sido muy crucial porque mucha gente no estaba tomando medidas preventivas. Fue muy triste que no pudiéramos despedirnos como solíamos hacerlo. Lo que más extraño es no tenerlos cerca, hablar con ellos, y poder participar en el programa [The quarantine in Huaycan has been very crucial because a lot of people were not taking preventative measures. It was very sad that we couldn’t say goodbye like we used to. What I miss the most is not having them around, talking to them, and being able to participate in the program].”
Despite the obvious disruptions to their everyday lives, Huaywasi artisans fortunately are already used to working from home! The biggest change for them has been shopping at Gamarra.
Gamarra, one of the largest textile markets in Latin America, is where we source all materials for Huaywasi production. Pre-COVID, Gamarra was always overflowing with people and vendors, but now, things have changed quite a bit.
Daria, Huaywasi’s Master Weaver, described to us “He visitado Gamarra y si ha cambiado porque no todos los puestos están abiertos en su totalidad, así como el costo de los materiales a aumentar, con respecto a los compradores veo que la gente no toma conciencia y lleva su vida normal como antes de la pandemia [I have visited Gamarra and it has changed because not all the vendors are open in their entirety, as well as the cost of materials has increased With respect to buyers I see that people do not become aware and lead their normal life as before the pandemic].”
Elena also mentioned that the prices have gone up significantly and it is a lot less crowded. For the safety of all Huaywasi artisans, we have been limiting their trips to the market but it is still really interesting to hear about their experiences from the times they have had to go out.
While Huaywasi and LLI have been adjusting well to the new “normal,” as Irene stated perfectly, we are all waiting for the days when we can return back to the office Huaycan can finally breathe again.
]]>To raise awareness on reasons to shop small, Huaywasi and LLI have created the hashtag, #ShopSmallSábado, to highlight our team's involvement and provide resources on ways that YOU can support small businesses!
]]>The concept of Small Business Saturday has become increasingly more popular all around the world as more consumers are rising to take action to support local businesses. In between the overwhelming marketing that occurs for Black Friday and Cyber Monday, lies a relatively new holiday which glorifies the value of American small businesses, Small Business Saturday.
Small Business Saturday is now a national holiday which started in 2010 to celebrate small businesses and encourage more consumers to shop locally at the beginning of the holiday season. The holiday aims to capture consumers to purchase by highlighting the importance small businesses have on the economy, as well as the opportunity to purchase unique products and services within their own community.
As an American-Peruvian organization, we want to examine how the ideas of “shopping small” vary around the world. In the United States, this holiday aims to promote the importance of supporting local businesses that serve as the backbone of the American economy. However in a developing country like Peru, this concept is new and foreign because people are inherently already supporting small businesses.
In communities such as Huaycan, where Huaywasi and LLI are based, there are NO name brand stores or restaurants. Every business is locally owned and independent, which as we know is much different from communities in the global north that are full of name brand stores and large chains.
Irene, LLI’s Communication & Development Manager, recently said, “Living in Huaycan, supporting small businesses also means supporting local entrepreneurs in the community, it means supporting her/his family and their willingness to grow.”
This year to raise awareness on reasons to shop small, Huaywasi and LLI have created the hashtag, #ShopSmallSábado, to highlight our team's involvement and provide resources on ways that YOU can support small businesses!
The map below highlights some of the wonderful local businesses our entire team is supporting all around the world for #ShopSmallSábado. As Huaywasi’s Program Manager, Deb, stated, “We believe it is increasingly more important to support not only small businesses, but specifically small businesses that support other small businesses.”
We understand that the 2020 Holiday Season is unlike any other and many are facing health, financial, and employment scares. To those that are able to this year, we want to encourage you now more than ever, to support small businesses and specifically those with ethical and sustainable missions!
1. Pay Now, Shop Later
2. Refer a Friend
3. Show Love Directly
4. Engage on Social Media
5. Have a Little Patience
Many gift cards are also able to be sent online (Huaywasi’s Included!) so you can still send love while staying safe this season!
2. Referral programs are a great way to show love when you might be feeling some financial pressure. Many small businesses offer referral programs where you can send your friends and family a specialized discount code to save on their order and in return, you also get a discount off your next purchase!
Here at Huaywasi, we know everything is better with friends which is why we are proud to offer our Give $15, Get $15 program where you can give your friends a $15 coupon on their first order and then you will receive a $15 coupon when they make a purchase from your link! Click this link to login into your Huaywasi account and refer a friend now!
3. A great way to support your favorite local business love directly, without even spending a penny, is to leave a review online! If you’ve purchased a product from them, even if it was a long time ago, you can still leave them a review online! Comments and direct feedback from consumers go a really long way and it’s a great way to show the shop’s credibility.
You can also post your review on 3rd party sites, such as Google or Yelp, to help the small business out even more!
4. Another great way to support small businesses, for free, is to follow them on social media and engage with their content! Likes, comments, shares, and tags only take a few seconds out of your day, but it makes the world of a difference to these small shops!
5. Finally, please have patience this holiday season! As more consumers than ever before are turning to online shopping to complete holiday orders, shipping times may take a bit longer than usual. Oftentimes it is completely out of these small businesses' control to make the process go any faster so please be patient with everyone!
]]>We know the effects of COVID-19 are extremely exacerbating for the nation of Peru, but it is good recognize the silver linings that have come of all this, especially within the fair trade industry.
]]>For obvious reasons, life around the world has ceased to return to “normal,” and Peru is certainly no exception. The lives for many in developing nations prior to COVID-19 was never easy, and the pandemic has only exacerbated these hardships.
Early on, Peru imposed one of the earliest and strictest lockdowns to stop the spread of the coronavirus but they still had over 815,000 COVID-19 cases and experienced more than 30,000 deaths. As an NGO operating in Huaycan, Peru, we want to take this opportunity to reflect on the devastation this pandemic has caused, while also recognizing the organizations that are continuously striving to better the wellbeing of others.
Although Peru imposed such a strict lockdown, cases still skyrocketed and experts say this is due in part to the fact that Peru’s healthcare system was unprepared, along with other social and economic factors that might explain Peru’s struggle to contain the virus.
President Vizcarra said the country’s markets were “the main sources of contagion” which makes sense considering only 40% of Peruvian homes have refrigerators, causing people to frequently restock food. On top of this, at many markets, over 50% of sellers were infected, causing people to go home and spread the disease to their relatives. The government later reorganized to better control the markets and enforced mandatory mask mandates but many experts say this response was too slow.
The Light and Leadership Initiative (LLI) and Huaywasi are located in Huaycan, Peru which is a developing urban community in the outskirts of Lima. The pandemic created many challenges for workers in the urban areas because they were suddenly forced to quarantine back in their villages far away from the cities. On the other hand, in the rural Andean villages, it was a very different story.
In the Andes, the mountain air is fresh and clean and local farmers seem to be thriving, according to Penny Livingston, who has been working with local organizations and community leaders throughout the quarantine.
The main goals for these organizations and leaders in the Andes are to:
Unfortunately in other Peruvian villages that lack the support of these outside organizations, there has been an increase in the mistreatment of farmers who sell to middle men buyers. These buyers are now paying very little for their produce and then upcharging the resale price of the produce in their own shops.
A key silver lining in all of this is that this unfairness of trade has encouraged people in these villages to create a fair trade food distribution system that could maintain sustainability within these villages.
This fair trade food distribution system brought forth a realization that there continues to be a major lack of food security within these villages, which is mainly due to the fact that before COVID-19, there was never much encouragement behind storing food for emergencies. A few strategies proposed for village communities to follow consist of:
Teaching educators from these communities to encourage and normalize the action of attending school
Encouraging villagers to support each other's local businesses
Creating markets and revenue systems
By normalizing the action of villagers attending school and finding the willingness to accept education, community leaders have decided to offer villagers opportunities of receiving scholarships in their educational journey.
The strategy of local farmers supporting each other's businesses strengthens the ties between the community by allowing the process of the fair trade food distribution system to flourish and continue moving forward. A result of this bond between community members coming together can be seen in the success organic farmers have had in being able to sell all of their produce, despite being deeply affected by the pandemic.
Across these local villages, there has also been an increase in the demand for organic produce among community residents and foreigners in those areas. This demand for organic produce has encouraged the leaders of Huaran and surrounding villages to entirely become organic villages.
The Huaran community plans on using municipal funds to support 20 farmers that will be transitioning and implementing organic methods. The community leaders have agreed that this approach of organic food producing is the future to sustaining their villages and creating a security of food for them as well.
If there is one thing the pandemic has taught many Peruvian farmers and villagers is that they have the potential to be resilient and overcome any obstacles they are faced with. We know the effects of COVID-19 are extremely exacerbating for the nation of Peru, but it is good recognize the silver linings that have come of all this, especially within the fair trade industry.
With campaigns like Oxfam’s Second Hand September urging more consumers to buy pre-loved clothes, we thought we would share some information on the benefits of shopping secondhand and some ethical brands you can check out!
In June 2019, Oxfam launched Second Hand September at a festival to ask people to be more involved in the fight against fast fashion. They shared messages about the impact that fashion has on the planet and garment workers.
Participants of the pledge are asked to only buy secondhand clothes for the month of September and share your pledge using #SecondHandSeptember and tagging @OxfamGB.
Since the, Second Hand September has taken off with over 80,000 uses of #SecondHandSeptember. Many influencers, celebrities, brands, and consumers alike have come together to pledge to change their approach to fashion.
For a lot of us, due to the unknown that this year has thrown at us, we have been able to take a pause and really look at how we shop and consume products in a more conscious way. According to Oxfam, “One of the few positives to come out of this pandemic is the opportunity to break old habits and build a fairer and more sustainable future.”
One of the many ways that we can all do our part in this movement towards sustainable consumption is to shop secondhand. Here are some benefits for secondhand shopping (:
Challenge yourself to shop second hand not just for the month of September, but in the long term too! If you need some inspiration, check out these awesome brands below!
1) MAW Supply - short for Man and Woman, is a black-owned vintage store located in Houston, Texas that was founded in 2012 by husband and wife, Norman and Rachelle Clark. Specializing in sustainable day-today pieces, they share their love for vintage and secondhand goods that reflect simplicity, style, comfort, and individuality for the wardrobe of today.
2) Tradesy - In 2009, Founder & CEO, Tracy DiNunzio had a closet full of disposable fast fashion items that left her dissatisfied and craving a more sustainable wardrobe. When she discovered that the traditional fashion consumption habits were also harming people and the planet, she set out on a mission to change this by founding Tradesy, the luxury fashion resale marketplace that enables women to get the designer fashion they crave - on their own terms.
3) / id / - An ethical & slow fashion brand creating a wearable experience for mindful & passionate lives. Driven by a mother-daughter duo, this team brings a combination of fun, sophistication, & versatility into their designs to create timeless pieces. Their goal is to support makers by helping them to fulfill their full potential in their personal and professional lives.
]]>August 30th is a national holiday in Peru that commemorates Saint Rose of Lima who died on August 24th 1617. Rose of Lima is the patron saint of peru and the indigenous natives of Latin America.
On this day there is a religious procession that takes place from the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo, where the Saint’s remains are kept, all the way to the Cathedral Basilica of Lima. Visiting the Church and Sanctuary of St. Rose de Lima is also a popular activity to do on this day.
A popular tradition on this day of celebration is to throw cards with wishes written on them into the well outside of the Shrine of Saint Rose de Lima, in commemoration of keys to a heavy chain she tied around her waist that she threw into the well many years before.
Finally, the celebrations are wrapped up with fireworks that light up the city skyline!
Saint Rose of Lima was born on April 20th 1586 in Lima, Peru and was one of 13 children. Her real name was Isabel, but she was such a beautiful baby with rosy cheeks, that she quickly became known as “Rose.”
Rose showed great devotion to god from an early age and her parents hoped her good looks would enable her to marry well to help support the family and escape poverty. However, Rose decided to follow a religious life dedicating herself to god.
Since Rose was too poor to join a monastery, she made money to support her family and her charity work by selling needlework and flowers. She would also look after the sick and those in need in Lima by bringing them to her cottage to feed and care for them.
The Dominican Order noticed Rose’s great efforts and allowed her to join without any payment. Her efforts were soon noticed by the Dominican Order who allowed her to join without any payment. While she continued to serve the people of Lima, Rose also practiced some extreme forms of devotion such as only eating bread and water.
Unfortunately, Rose passed away at the age of 31 and when she died, her funeral was forced to be delayed by two days because so many people showed up to pay their respects. In 1667, 50 years after her passing, Rose was beatified as Saint Rose de Lima, making her the first person born in the Americas to become a saint.
Science her beatification, in 1729, the Roman Catholic calendar added her feast day as August 30th, but in 1969, revisions to the calendar allocated her feast day as August 23rd. However, Peru and most other Latin American countries still celebrate the original date.
]]>
Despite the wars of independence being fought across Latin America in the early 19th century, Peru remained loyal to the Spanish crown. During the War of Peruvian Independence, Peru, and particularly Lima, was a stronghold for royalists and one of the last Spanish-ruled territories in South America to declare independence.
Independence Day is always a good time to be in Peru, and although this year's celebration may look a little different, we still want to send love and good vibes to the country Huaywasi is lucky to call home. <3
]]>We here at Huaywasi are proud to stand with many businesses in the #StopHateForProfit campaign, halting paid advertising on Facebook and Instagram in the U.S. starting July 1.
On June 17, a group of six organizations, including the Anti-Defamation League, the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People, and Color of Change, launched the campaign which calls on Facebook advertisers to halt their spending for the entire month of July. The goal of this campaign is simple: convince social media companies to finally put people over profit.
Companies such as Ben & Jerry’s, are asking Facebook “to take the clear and unequivocal actions called for by the campaign to stop it from being used to spread and amplify racism and hate.” There is an endless list of businesses participating in the campaign but some brands to highlight are Unilever, Verizon, Patagonia, The North Face, and Eileen Fisher.
Jonathan Greenblatt, president of the ADL, wrote in an open letter to Facebook advertisers, “Your ad buying dollars are being used by the platform to increase its dominance in the industry at the expense of vulnerable and marginalized communities who are often targets of hate groups on Facebook.”
It is important now more than ever for every brand, in every industry, to stand up for these injustices. Rashad Robinson, president of Color of Change, said in a statement, “Amid this global movement to end anti-Blackness, we credit these companies for answering our call swiftly and taking a clear stand for what’s right so we can hold Facebook accountable for its racist policies.”
The NAACP said, “We have been down this road with Facebook. They have made apologies in the past. They have taken meager steps after each catastrophe where their platform played a part. But this has to end now.”
The NAACP has also listed ten steps that can be used to begin to address Facebook’s problems.
Establish and empower permanent civil rights infrastructure to evaluate products and policies for discrimination, bias, and hate
Submit to regular, third-party, independent audits of identity-based hate and misinformation with summary results published to website
Provide audit and refund to advertisers whose ads were shown next to content that was later removed for violations of terms of service
Find and remove public and private groups focused on white supremacy, militia, antisemistism, violent conspiracies, Holocaust denialism, vaccine misinformation, and climate denialism
Adopting common-sense changes to their policies that will help stem radicalization and hate on the platform
Stop recommending or otherwise amplifying groups or content from groups associated with hate, misinformation or conspiracies to users
Create an internal mechanism to automatically flag hateful content in private groups for human review
Ensure accuracy in political and voting matters by eliminating the politician exemption, removing misinformation related to voting, and prohibiting calls to violence by politicians in any format
Create expert teams to review submissions of identity-based hate and harassment
Enable individuals facing severe hate and harassment to connect with a live Facebook employee
Some people have argued that Facebook has been doing better lately, but as the ADL stated perfectly, “‘Better’ isn’t good enough when you have billions of users and rampant hate pervading 24 hours a day, seven days a week, across the globe.”
As a small brand, we typically rely on Facebook and Instagram advertising to reach a larger consumer market. During this boycott, we are asking for your help to make this financially feasible for us.
3 Ways to Help Small Brands During #StopHateForProfit campaign:
We have learned the hard way that Facebook will not take these necessary steps unless forced. We invite all business, organizations, and partners to join us in the #StopHateForProfit campaign where we can work together to hold the platform accountable.
]]>For the entire month of June, Huaywasi has muted all original content and promotions in order to shine the spotlight on organizations and resources important in creating change. We are focusing our platform on other informational and supplemental sources where you can learn more as an ally and/or donate to organizations leading the movement towards a United States without racism, oppression, and hate.
To conclude June being Pride Month, we will be focusing our content on the Black LGBTQ+ community that is continuing to make strides for a more free and equal society. We will highlight educators, artists, organizations, and brands that are specifically helping to empower those in the LGBTQ+ community and are constantly fighting for the much needed change. Enough is enough. We need to take action now.
Sarah Kate Ellis, president of GLAAD, a LGBTQ+ advocacy group, told Good Morning America, “It is all of our responsibility to speak out publicly against racism, systemic injustice, and police brutality, and to elevate voices and amplify stories of people of color, especially within the LGBTQ+ community.”
Brooklyn based fashion blogger, Doreen Pierre, said in a statement, “We would not have a Pride Month, the modern gay rights movement or the Black Lives Matter movement without the labor of the Black queer community.” Black queer people have consistently put their lives on the line for social change while they are misrepresented, underrepresented, and underserved across all ways of life.
The National Gay and Lesbian Chamber of Commerce (NGLCC) houses a registry of LGBTQ+ businesses, and according to their 2016 report, only 4.3% of LGBTQ+ businesses were owned by African Americans. Furthermore, only 2% of these businesses registered were owned by transgender buisness owners. This is not a coincidence. According to the National LGBTQ Task Force, transgender people are four times more likely than the general population to make less than $10,000 per year.
Time and time again we can see clear indicators that prove an individual’s ability to thrive can be directly related to the disparities in our society created by racism, homophobia, and transphobia. Despite all odds against them, black queer businesses do exist and they need your support more than ever. As an ethical fashion brand, we have decided to share 5 black queer owned conscious fashion brands that you can support.
1. STUZO CLOTHING - Started in 2010 by Stoney Michelli and Uzo Ejikeme, their mission is to create a space in the fashion world where all are welcome without judgement. Stuzo Clothing is a gender free clothing company designed to invoke thought and emotion. “We are inspired by love, people, and life. Whatever shape or form you choose to exist in, we celebrate that!”
Even better, the co-founders ensure that their mission is to give back to the community and are inclusive in their hiring practices. In a Huffpost interview they said, “We directly work with the LGBTQIA center’s youth here in Los Angeles by employing them - 95% of people we work with and hire are from our communities and are mostly Black, queer and non-binary.”
2. NICOLE ZIZI - Nicole Zizi is a multi-dimensional artist and designer who attributes her Haitian descent to be a significant aspect expressed in her artwork. “This sense of culture stems from a deep sensibility to craftsmanship, textiles, and community that is common practice within the Haitian community.”
Nicole Zizi Studio is a brand that is focused on eco-conscious, sustainability, and innovation in gender free premium streetwear and accessories. By sourcing recycled, alternative, and natural materials, Zizi is able to develop new products that push towards the elimination of environmental pollution. “As a nod to circularity, I aim to protect our communities while simultaneously I am always keeping in mind the way each design affects our environment as a whole.”
3. MAKOMA - Makoma, which means, “my heart,” is an ethically made brand that is a lifestyle designed from African diaspora. “The goal is to create one-of-a-kind, contemporary designs using a combination of African prints and classic silhouettes.” Their products are made with the highest-quality craftsmanship and authentic styles that can only be found at their website and monthly pop-up shops.
4. STYLE IS FREEDOM - Toni Branson created this brand in 2008 with the purpose of liberating and celebrating the Tomboi culture through fashion. “Toni was determined to create a safe space in fashion for the masculine identifying woman to exist. She wanted Style is Freedom to be the face of the Tomboi culture and create a liberating message for the genderless fashion movement.”
Style is Freedom manufactures premium streetwear garments and all of their garments are made from premium fabrics. They now even offer embroidery services!
5. Show & Tell - The Concept Shop, founded in 2011 by Alyah, is a platform for unique, vibrant, inclusive styles that promote Bold Beauty and Joyful Living. “Our carefully curated assortment features our handmade Show & Tell Collection alongside an evolving selection of ethical and sustainable goods from like-minded brands.” They believe in socially responsible practices, authentic self-expression, and radical acceptance and celebration of people of color, LGBTQIA+ folks, women, and other marginalized communities.
There are so many more brands and organizations making strides in the Black LGBTQ+ fashion community but these 5 conscious brands are a great place to start.
Erica Lovett, Inclusion & Community Manager at Condé Nast, stated perfectly in an Insider/Outsider article “Inclusion & Diversity in the American Fashion Industry”,
“It’s exciting to see more racial and ethnic representation highlighted through these mediums, but visibility alone is not the solution to advancing diversity and inclusion in fashion. The industry must recognize and prioritize efforts to support greater diversity on the business side: the financiers, the chief executives, the heads of fashion houses, the senior level magazine editors, and business leaders. There is a lack of opportunity and access for people of underrepresented backgrounds in the fashion industry. It’s a systemic issue tied to the homogeneity of industry leadership. Until fashion leaders across all categories become more diverse, we will continue to only progress at the surface level.”
We here at Huaywasi couldn't agree more to that statement. We need real systemic change across all industries to truly see real results and opportunities. We recognize that there is still so much more work that needs to be done to create a more diverse and inclusive fashion industry. This means confronting difficult conversations and becoming aware of historical and societal injustices that need to be addressed head on.
Please consider checking out our blog post “Racism in the Fashion Industry: How to be Part of the Change,” where we discuss the fashion industry’s deep rooted relationship with racism, organizations that are striving to make differences, petitions you can sign, and black-owned conscious fashion brands that you can support.
No industry, brand, or individual can do this much needed work alone, but we can all work together to create a more just and equal world for all.
]]>Take action today! Every industry, brand, and individual has a valuable role to play in this movement.
To honor George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, Ahmaud Arbery, and the countless other lives taken unjustly, we here at Huaywasi decided to suspend our online store for a week in solidarity with Black Americans, the Black Lives Matter movement, and protesters across the nation.
We kindly asked those on Instagram that were interested in supporting our brand to instead consider donating to highlighted organizations to help fight systemic racism and end police brutality. However, we recognize this is still not enough. Every brand, in every industry, has a valuable role to play in this ongoing fight, no matter how big or small they are. We want to do our best to advocate for this necessary change by sharing resources, organizations, and ways that you can personally make a difference.
We are continuing to educate ourselves as well as support and donate to causes we believe in. We are going to focus our platform on other informational and supplemental sources where you can learn more as an ally and/or donate to organizations leading the movement towards a United States without racism, oppression, and hate.
This change first starts with education, and while we certainly aren’t experts, we do want to share information on the areas where we are the most knowledgeable and experienced. As a small non-profit brand (any proceeds we make are circulated back into our NGO’s Light and Leadership’s Women’s Empowerment Program), our area of expertise is the fashion industry and our goal is to do our part in righting the wrongs in this harmful industry by creating ethical job opportunities for local artisans in the city of Huaycán, Peru.
Huaywasi was formed on the basis of helping women in a marginalized community create more opportunity for themselves and their families. We always put our people first, and we feel like now more than ever, it’s our duty to continue to stand behind those who have been oppressed and treated unfairly for far too long.
Consumers are now not only beginning to question the industry’s standards, but are also demanding change by simply boycotting companies with unethical practices. That being said, it is extremely important to note the fashion industry’s deep rooted relationship with racism so we can best address ways to move forward.
As Bárbara Poerner stated perfectly in her Fashion Revolution blog, “Black lives matter. And black lives were used for cotton production in the United States during slavery times.” While women and children worked extensively in cotton spinning mills in places like the United Kingdom, many people in Africa were kidnapped and enslaved on cotton plantations in the United States and elsewhere.
Today this natural fiber is one of the most used textiles and is produced globally, but its history stems from racism and injustice. As one of the first textiles to be manufactured, this material sets the unfortunate tone for how race plays its role in the textile industry. Millions of black people were enslaved to produce cotton and in the years that followed, “those same southern U.S. states had racisim legislated through racial segregation” stated Poerner. This segregation and unfair treatment is still happening today through legislation, voter suppression, and many other forms of institutionalized and systemic injustices that occur throughout the country.
Make no mistake, the fashion industry is racially oppressive. We can see the horrendous effects of marginalization and discrimination today and we cannot remain silent. This reveals how the textile and clothing production systems of fashion are supported by the very exploitative and pervasive systems of racism. Poerner notes that “the cotton of the slavery period was the product of the slavery system, it was the product of the deaths of black people."
This system continues to reveal itself to us when we see continuous murders and unfair treatment of black people around the world. As unfortunate as it is, we need to recognize these acts of violence run through the entire fashion industry, where many people, mainly women, are subjected to conditions of modern slavery and continous racism.
We as a brand and as individuals need to affirm the commitment to a revolution in fashion and accept the need to build an anti-racist industry for the present. According to Dominique Drakeford, who is a social and cultural sustainability writer, “as a continuous work in progress, a brand must value black and brown relationships that adds agency to localised communities in order to be truly sustainable.” This is something that we are certainly working to improve and build on here at Huaywasi.
You can follow Dominique on Instagram @dominiquedrakeford to learn more about race in fashion & Ecological Equity.
We understand that this information can be overwhelming and uncomfortable (as it should be), but it is important and necessary for us and all non-POC to look deep inside ourselves to be part of the change. To start, we wanted to highlight a few important ways that individuals can take part in the Black Lives Matter movement, and even more specifically, a racially balanced fashion revolution.
Although we are based in Peru, our non-profit has a US headquarters in Chicago, and we feel very connected to the Chicagoland community. We have listed two Chicago non-profits as well as a national non-profit that our team has chosen to support:
2. Project NIA - Founded in Chicago but now based in NYC, this grassroots organization works to end the arrest, detention, and incarceration of children and young adults by promoting restorative and transformative justice practices.
3. Campaign Zero - An online platform and organization that utilizes research-based policy solutions to end police brutality in America.
We understand that not everyone has the financial capability to donate money to organizations, but there are still countless other ways you can participate in the movement. Signing petitions is a really simple but highly meaningful way of using your voice to benefit the greater good.
We have listed 10 petitions that you can sign easily, and for free, just by clicking the links.
As an ethical fashion organization, we would like to also highlight non-profits that are committed to making a difference and helping POC in the garment and retail industries.
3. Fifteen Percent Pledge - Join their mission as they call on major retailers to pledge 15% of their shelf space to black-owned businesses. Signing this petition is your opportunity to collectively put $14.5 billion into black communities.
There are so many more valuable resources out there right now but we would like to conclude this post with black-owned conscious fashion brands that are striving to make a difference in the world of fashion. As a consumer you can vote with your wallet and support brands that uphold ethical and equitable beliefs.
House of Aama - A culturally inspired lifestyle brand rooted in the ethos of the African continent and diaspora. Run by a mother-daughter-duo, their designs are reflective of the PostBellum Southern US and are meant to convey a strong sense of self worth built on the retention of strong cultural traditions.
Nia Thomas NY - Capitalizing on the opportunity of representing what a vegan and eco-conscious woman of color could create and positively share with the world, Nia Thomas created a brand that plays around the concept of proudly wearing your heritage on your sleeve.
Lé Citrine - A unique women’s streetwear brand run by Leslynn Centeio, where every item is handmade and customers have the option of sharing their measurements for customizable sizing. The brand has two goals: practicing sustainable fashion by repurposing materials and making YOU feel sexy, comfortable, and confident in your own body.
We know that there are so many other amazing brands and resources to share but we hope this gives you a place to start to learn about the current injustices occurring, especially in the fashion industry, and most importantly, take action.
Take action by voting in local elections for anti-racist candidates; take action with your purchasing power, support black owned business and ethical businesses that support black and brown workers; take action by showing up, sign petitions, protest with your neighbor. Take action.
]]>We may be far from our moms right now, but that doesn't mean we can't honor them!
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Mother’s Day may be looking very different for millions of mothers around the world, as many are practicing social distancing, some have grown children who are unable to travel to see them, some are going on weeks of homeschooling while working, and hundreds of variations in-between these.
As everything from high school graduations to weddings are going virtual, we’re forced to resort to connection from afar, even when all we want most is to hug our moms.
This year, though our entire team is dispersed and quarantining (from Chicago to Lima to Huaycan), we took some time to collect sweet messages and age old wisdom from the artisans and operations team.
We focused in on two questions: What is the biggest lesson your mom taught you?
...And...
For the mothers (and grandmothers!) on our team: What is your favorite thing about being a mother?
ELENA
Artisan - Seamstress - Mother
“Las lecciones que aprendí de mi mamá es ser honesta, responsable y honrrada y lo más lindo de ser madre es tener dos hijos maravillosos con quienes comparto día a día”
“The lessons I learned from my mom are to be honest, responsible, and honorable. The best thing about being a mother is having two incredible children with who I can shara my day-to-day with”
HERMINIA
Artisan - Accessories Maker & Screenprinter - Mother
“La lección que aprendí de mi madre quizás ser perseverante y luchadora y nunca darme porvencida”
La parte favorita de ser madre es ver crecer a mis hijas hermosas y llenas de amor, ellas son mi mundo y me da mucha satisfacción.”
“The lesson I learned from my mother maybe is to be perseverant, to be a fighter, and to never give up.
My favorite part of being a mother is watching my beautiful, loving daughters grow up. They are my world and bring me so much happiness.”
JILL
Program Manager - Daughter
“My mom has taught me so many lessons over the years, but her recurring mantra is ‘Patience is a virtue’. As I’ve gotten older I’ve only become more hyperactive in both my work life and personal life, so this lesson especially resonates with my personality. She’s always quick to remind me to relax, enjoy the present, and realize that patience will only make the reward sweeter.
Also, she's super financially smart -- I'm praying those qualities rub off on me. Love you, Mom!”
GUILLERMINA
Artisan - Seamstress - Mother
“La lección que me dejó mi mamá fue que me enseñó a trabajar. Y así no depender de nadie por que así siempre me lo decía.
Mi parte favorita de ser madre es de ver crecer cada día a mis hijos y conforme van creciendo cada día los voy conociendo mas”
“The lesson my mom left me was that she taught me how to work. So I wouldn't have to depend on anyone because that's the way she always told me.
My favorite part of being a mother is watching my children grow every day and as they grow older I get to know them more”
ALEJANDRA
Artisan - Knitter - Mother - Grandmother
“La mejor lección que aprendí de mi mama fue era muy bondadosa con todas las personas ya sea familia o invitada.
La mejor lo que me gusta de ser abuela que mi nieta es muy cariñosa conmigo y con sus tíos y tías”
“The greatest lesson I learned from my mom was that she was very kind to all people, whether they were family or guests.
The thing I like most about being a grandmother is that my granddaughter is so sweet with me and with her uncles and aunts”
LARA
Executive Director - Daughter - Mother
"My mom has taught me to always have confidence in my abilities and who I am. The creation of LLI is proof that she instilled in me a belief I can do anything, and moreover, I should do it to help, serve and support others. Gracias Mamá!
Fave part of being a mom: Impossible to pick a favorite honestly. Gael is the world to me <3"
We hope these sweet messages make you want to call up your mom as much as we do right now!
We wish all of our Huaywasi mothers, grandmothers, and motherly-figures a wonderful Mother’s Day surrounded (near or far) by love and support <3
While there seems to be a plethora of helpful resources at our fingertips, the information overload can make us feel exhausted and overwhelmed. Where should we focus our efforts when it seems like everyone in the world needs a (virtual) hug right now?
Here at Huaywasi, we unfortunately don’t have all the answers, but we do want to focus our research on some topics we care about most: garment workers, artisans, fair trade projects, and small businesses that are truly focused on giving back to their communities.
Additionally, with the annual Fashion Revolution Week in full swing, some of these tips are geared towards the rights of garment workers in vulnerable countries. Now more than ever is an important time to come together to help support artisans of all walks of life. We’ll start with the most obvious…..
No one can ignore the abundance of sales emails getting thrust at their inbox every day. As much as this excites us, this is also a clear sign of small brands saying “help!” as they are seeing sales screeching to a halt.
As many of us worry about our finances over the next few months, it also puts people in a bind as they decide whether they really need their tenth pair of leggings (But they are on sale! We know, no judgements :) ).
If you are trying to save but still want to contribute, rethinking your essential purchases is a great happy medium! Soap is something quite literally everyone needs to buy right now, so why not buy from a small brand or project giving back to the community? We personally love b.a.r.e soaps and Alaffia.
Another obvious purchase is hand sanitizer. We know that the CDC really emphasizes soap and water when available, but it is nice to have this stashed in case of emergencies or when you’re on a grocery run. Many breweries and distilleries have made the switch to producing hand sanitizer for first-response workers, but there are also some small brands producing for the public that could really use the sales boost.Try to find local businesses in your area that have made the switch!
Lastly, there are ways to support smaller, ethical projects through buying some (what we would call) “essential non-essentials” during the quarantine and social distancing phases. Whether it’s cocktails, wine, or your everyday coffee, tea, and snacks, there are fair trade projects that could really benefit from the extra sales to keep their artisans and workers employed. Even puzzle companies and online bookshops are finding ways to support individual artists and indie brick-and-mortar bookstores. A small change in your normal purchases could make a huge difference to someone!
If you feel you want to help small projects, but nothing is calling your name right now, help support them by buying a gift card to use at a later time! Many e-commerce website platforms have changed their policy plans during the pandemic to allow brands of any size to start promoting a gift card option (Huaywasi included!).
Better yet, electronically give the gift card to a loved one or an essential COVID-19 front line worker to help brighten their day.
Again, want to help but feeling the financial pressure? Try looking for referral programs where brands that you have previously purchased from give you a specialized discount code to send to friends and family. They can use your code to get a certain amount off their purchase, and you in return get a discount on your next purchase!
We’re excited to start our own Give $15, Get $15 campaign. We’ve created a small cheatsheet below to help you get started:
- Log into your Huaywasi account through clicking the person icon on the top right hand corner of the home screen.
- Scroll to the bottom of our home page and under the Navigation menu click “Give $15, Get $15”
- Copy your unique referral link to give out to a loved one. Tell them to enter that referral URL into their internet browser
- Our website and a subsequent pop-up will prompt the person to create an account to receive the code
- After creating an account, the discount code will appear to be copied and later pasted into the checkout page
Referral programs can be a great way to spread your favorite ethical brand’s message without spending any money!
On this same note, there are many ways to support small brands and artisan projects online without purchasing anything via social media. Likes, comments, shares on stories, entering giveaways and tagging friends, the possibilities are really endless to help individually promote ethical brands (and can all be done in less than 5 minutes!).
Additionally, if you’ve purchased from the brand before, you can take the time to leave them a product review. With the vast majority of customers trusting online reviews as much as a personal recommendation, your input could really help a small project grow organically!
On April 24th, 2013, the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh collapsed due to illegal construction and working conditions put in place by the owner and clothing managers, resulting in the death of over 1,100 garment workers.
As we remember this week those lives that were lost, Fashion Revolution works to create more transparency and better working conditions for garment workers around the world, generating their popular “Who Made My Clothes” campaign to help give workers a voice in the global fashion industry.
Unfortunately, many factories in Bangladesh and around the world are facing another crisis, as large brands are cancelling and postponing over $3 billion dollars worth of orders due to COVID-19. Of this amount, over a billion dollars comes from orders that were already in production or completed.
We know that while there isn’t a perfect solution for larger brands as they face declining sales and economic crises, there should never be a time that garment workers and factories are producing orders that they aren’t getting paid for, as some brands are simply approaching the weakest links in their supply chain to ask for help rather than applying for government subsidies.
Fashion Revolution already has an easy-to-use template set up to email popular brands asking them to honor existing contracts they have with their factories during this time. Remake is non-profit centered around ending fast fashion, and they have launched a global #PayUp campaign, calling on major labels to pay factories and garment workers for the orders they have already placed. You can sign their online petition here.
Other initiatives could include reaching out to them via social media. Find out which brands could be putting workers at risk here or check out the chart below compiled by Fashion Revolution.
As we stated before, brands of all industries and sizes have been impacted harshly by the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic. This impact doesn’t exclude our small artisan project, or even much larger ethical projects operating in Peru, especially due to Peru’s rapid response through a national lockdown that will be in place until at least April 26th.
As we grappled with the fact that all of our summer fairs will most likely be cancelled, and with our educational parent non-profit, LLI, closing their doors and recommending all management return to their homes in Peru and around the world, we knew Huaywasi could not operate during this time to offer the artisans their normal monthly orders.
After completing payments for their March orders (and paying one artisan three months worth of maternity leave, congrats to Guillermina on her new baby!), our management team decided to set up an independent relief fund for our artisans with a goal to provide them each with three months worth of wages.
Many other brands and causes have taken action to helping artisans and garment workers around the world during this crisis:
We are all facing unprecedented times in ways we couldn’t imagine previously, and the most important thing we can do first and foremost is protect ourselves and stay indoors so that we can protect others. While we are quarantining at home, small brands, ethical projects, fair trade businesses, and most importantly, the associated workers behind the label, could really use support from their global communities.
We are still discovering new and amazing initiatives to help these workers, artisans, and projects, and we’d love to keep the conversation going! Please drop us a comment below or email us if you’ve noticed a fund or project that’s making an impact in the fair trade, artisan, or clothing industry!
]]>“The fashion industry was built on secrecy and elitism; it was opaque. Transparency is disruptive - in the sense, it’s a breath of fresh air and a useful weapon of change”
The fashion industry has left an unfortunate mark on our planet over the years. The clothing industry has been known to over-harvest natural resources, create excessive waste, and undervalue the people working within their supply chains. Consumers are not only beginning to question the fashion industry’s standards, but are demanding change by simply boycotting companies with malpractices.
As a small non-profit brand (any proceeds we make are circulated back into our NGO’s Light and Leadership’s Women’s Empowerment Program), we’ve done our best to be clear with you. As a customer you deserve to know where your money is going, and who you’re supporting with your dollar.
Many companies are joining the transparency movement by publishing their supply chain details, and we fully support that choice.
We want to make it easy for you to make an informed decision, so we’ve created this blog for you to use as a tool to compare and contrast our standards to others. It’s a means to hold us accountable.
We’ll be sharing information about the fabrics we’re using, where they were made, who turned them into a finished piece and how much it cost to get to you. We’ll talk to you about the working conditions of our artisan partners, and what processes we have in place to make sure they’re comfortable and happy in their roles.
We’ve broken our deep dive into 5 main categories: Buying Practices, Value for Money, Environmental Information, Who We Are and Artisan Partners. As this is our first attempt at some of these questions, we acknowledge our holes in information. While we may lack a few answers, we see this as an opportunity for growth. It’s cool to know what you don’t know.
Lastly, before we dig in, we’d like to make one thing clear. We’ve put people at the center of what we do, their care and treatment as artisan partners is by far the most important aspect of our mission. While we are conscious of the fact that our environmental footprint could be lower, we think we’ve done a pretty awesome job in the area that we’ve decided to focus on - and that’s empowering women through offering fair wages.
BUYING PRACTICES
We do the majority of our buying from Gamarra, one of the biggest textile markets in South America. When we’re in need of a fabric (Cotton, French Terry, Tela Andina etc.), we head there and prefer to buy from a handful of stalls we trust. We’ve been repeat customers for a while, and always love a good chat with the vendors (we’re hoping to do a vendor feature in the near future, so keep an eye out for that).
Trips are monthly, but can be more frequent depending on the artisans needs. However, forecasting ahead has really helped us make strides to reduce our number of Gamarra visits.
At times it can happen that our vendors are out of stock, and we need to source our resources from elsewhere. It can be difficult to choose who to work with. While we do our best to ask the right questions (ie. is this cotton grown local?), often we are greeted with the answer we want to hear as opposed to the truth.
Currently, we are looking to source a new supplier for our Alpaca Yarn. Say hello to Michell! They’re Peruvian, fully licensed in USD Organic, Control Union Certification, 100% Alpaca and Confidence in Textiles. They even offer some insight into their alpaca farming process.
VALUE FOR MONEY
To give you an idea of exactly where your money is going when you buy a product, we thought we’d break it down for you.
Percentage Breakdown of a $100 Daria Invierno Tote
Artisan Payment (Labor): 35%
Admin Costs (Manager Salary+Platform costs): 25%
Point of Sale Opportunities: 19%
Materials: 10%
Duties + Shipping + Transportation: 7%
Marketing: 3%
ENVIRONMENTAL DATA
Currently, we’re not at the stage where monitoring our carbon emissions, water consumption and pollution is feasible. In part due to the fact that more research needs to be done at the base level of where we’re getting our raw materials from, and in part due to the time constraints (our 3 person team can only do so much!).
What we can account for is our artisans’ processes after the buying of the raw material. We use minimal energy in the creation of products as artisan’s work from home. There’s no transportation to and from work everyday, no large emissions-emitting factories, no constant machines running in the background. Products are either hand knit, hand pressed or finished using a sewing machine.
Our biggest footprint would be our transportation of products from Peru to the US. We have a stockroom in Chicago (as the majority of our customers live within the Chicago area), which is where we store products until they’re either ordered offline or taken to a market/ fair. Essentially this means we’re double shipping products, which is less than ideal, but the only way we can securely offer products online for our customers outside the Chicagoland area.
WHO WE ARE
Our Huaywasi team has always been fairly tight knit, consisting of our seven artisan partners, our Founder (Lara DeVries), our Manager (Jill Schnieder), and our Volunteer Interns (currently Julie James).
Lara, originally from the suburbs of Chicago, moved to Huaycán, Peru in 2009 after founding the Light and Leadership Initiative. She's passionate about the Huaywasi artisan project because it provides not only fair wages to women, but educational opportunities to advance their careers and personal lives. Having lived in Lima for almost 8 years, she just recently moved back to Chicago with her husband (and new baby Gael!)
Jill, from the United States, joined Huaywasi’s team in April 2018 as the Business Communications & Development volunteer, but is now the Huaywasi Program Manager. She has a degree in Operations & Supply Management and Marketing, and has been working towards streamlining operations.
Julie, joined the team in January of this year, but is originally from Vancouver. With a background in Theatre and Arts Marketing, she’s enjoyed working with the artisans and being a part of Huaywasi’s creative process.
Our team is eager, passionate, and always interested in chatting about collaborations. We encourage customers to get in touch, and to continue the conversation around what ethical fashion means to you. If you have questions regarding our process, reach out through email, Instagram or Facebook!
WHO MADE MY CLOTHES
Daria, Hermina, Elena, Guillermina, Nelida, Alejandra, Saida.
You can find those women on the front page of our website, they’re the creative team over here at Huaywasi. They’re a team of seven, and they live and work in our local community, Huaycan, located on the outskirts of Lima. They’re mothers, grandmothers, storytellers and artists. With every product you buy, you can find an individualized tag, describing who made your piece. They don’t go to work in a factory each morning. They print, loom and sew from their own living rooms or home workshops.
By creating their own schedule, it offers them the flexibility to run other businesses or simply spend time with their families. We’re dedicated to paying an hourly wage above the Peruvian standard, and to offering steady work throughout the entire year.
Transparency is a movement, and we’re only at the beginning. Keep pushing bigger companies to open up, because ultimately that’s the only way to make change. Show you care about the lives of the people behind your clothes, ask your questions and do your research. Choose to buy from companies that are doing their best to have a minimal impact on the planet, and companies that make it easy for you to make an informed decision.
Writers & Contributors: Julie James & Jillian Schneider
]]>Big Hello and Happy New Year from our crew over here in Huaycan, Peru!
As we welcome in the new decade, we’d also like to welcome the opportunity to set our intentions for the year to come. We’re reflecting back on our last few years of experience, so that we can set specific resolutions, and move forward with clarity.
Over the next year you’re going to hear us use the word transparency A LOT, and that’s because it’s a key pillar when it comes to being an ethical brand. As a customer, you deserve honesty and to know that you can trust where you’re buying your clothes and accessories.
So that’s exactly how we intend to start off the year: Openly, honestly, and by sharing our goals for the year to come. As an ethical clothing company, we’re dedicated to doing what we can to help support the community through providing income for our seven artisan partners and funneling any profits back into the Women’s Program. By speaking up about our resolutions, we’re holding ourselves accountable. Without further ado, here are Huaywasi’s 2020 Resolutions:
In 2020 we'll increase our transparency (our buzzword of the year!).
We told you you’d be hearing this word from us a lot. We’re setting this as our top 2020 Resolution, because we think it’s integral that everything stems from honesty. Being radically honest takes courage, and it takes admitting that as an ethical company we aren’t perfect, but we are trying (hence the resolution plan!).
We think our customers deserve to hear the backstory behind the fashion. And let’s be real, knowing the name of the person that created your new t-shirt is a cool thing! It’s even cooler knowing that person was treated fairly (and with respect) throughout the entire process of creating it. That’s what we’re all about at Huaywasi.
Keep an eye out for our upcoming February blog post where we do a deep dive into our business practices, shipping policies, and where your money specifically is going when you buy a Huaywasi product.
We’ll be a dependable partner to our artisans by providing consistent, ongoing work.
Huaywasi is made up of seven artisans, each with their own unique skill set.
Elena is a master seamstress specializing in sweatshirts, while our other seamstress Guillermina focuses on tanks and dresses. Herminia handles much of our yoga accessories as well as anything involving tela andina, while her sister Daria is an expert loomer who creates her own specialized collections.Our knitters Alejandra and Nelida also share embroidery talents, while Saida handles all of our beautiful ceramic creations.
While our customers may not need a beanie or a Christmas tree ornament in July, it’s important that we aren’t simply offering seasonal work. These women are the creative core of Huaywasi, and they deserve financial stability for themselves and their families. We’ve determined two initiatives that will ensure artisans have steady work throughout the entire year.
Firstly, by creating a forecasting calendar, it will give us a better idea of project distribution and will show us which artisans have gaps in their production schedule. It will also give the artisans an idea of what to look forward to in upcoming projects. Secondly, we’re currently on the hunt for wholesale clients that are interested in carrying our products year round, which would help ensure consistent work for artisans.
Get in touch if you if you’d like to work with us, and be a part of our resolution plan.
We’ll continue upcycling and recycling old designs and fabrics, so that we can minimize our waste.
Hey, let’s be real. Not all products do as well as others, but that doesn’t mean they’re a lost cause. Did you know, every season we feature one upcycled product? Last Spring/Summer it was our little suede number, The Carina Tank, while this Fall/Winter we incorporated suede again to complete the Chan Chan Wristlet (which we’re happy to say sold out!).
Our goal is to reduce our fabric waste by altering past designs so that none of our pieces don’t end up in the trash. In 2020 we’ll continue with this tradition of reworking pieces and fabrics!
We’re dedicated to continued learning & spreading awareness.
As an ethical brand, we’re activists doing our part to change the way people think about clothing. The fashion industry has set some pretty toxic standards (both for our environment and for the people involved in the production process), and consumers have picked up on that. With a recent push from consumers, companies have been forced to move towards more sustainable and fair practices. That’s an applause-worthy shift.
At Huaywasi, we want to serve as an example within our industry and that means continued research, staying up to date and adapting when needed. This year we’re going to be LOUDER about what we’re learning, so you can expect to hear from us regularly.
We’re all about continued learning, staying up to date, and staying flexible and so we understand that we can always do better. Follow us on Instagram & Facebook and Subscribe to our Monthly Newsletter to get the latest in industry trends and all things ethical fashion related.
We’ll be better at talking about mental health in the workplace.
Mental Health can be a tricky topic of conversation, especially in parts of the world (such as Huaycan) where it isn’t widely discussed. It's difficult to know the boundaries between personal and professional life, when your personal life so often greatly affects how you do at work.
Here at Huaywasi, we’re striving to create a safe space where the ladies feel comfortable enough to open up about both their personal and professional challenges.
It takes courage to open up about what you need and what stresses you out, but it’s important to us that we receive regular feedback about how we can be more supportive. We love chatting with the artisans, and we’ve got an open door policy, but we’re also beginning to ask artisans specific questions related to their stress level and what they would like to take on in terms of work loads and new designs.
We’re looking to source more sustainable fabrics from trusted manufacturers
Gamarra is one of the biggest textile markets in South America. It’s a wild and colourful landscape filled with every kind of pattern and fabric your heart desires, and boy is it ever a maze. It’s so massive there are posts up on YouTube offering a “ How To” on Gamarra. While the variety is incomparable, the quality and the sources of the material can be unreliable.
Ultimately, we want to know that the fabrics we’re using are ethically and (ideally) locally produced. Since Peru has such an abundance of natural resources, we’re hoping to eliminate the necessity to buy fabrics that have been shipped from overseas markets to Gamarra. We’re hoping to get in touch with local factories so that we can produce high quality clothing using local resources.
We’d like to begin to offer more personalized & customized pieces to wholesale clients.
In the upcoming year we’re excited to start offering customized pieces to interested wholesalers. That means, if you’re interested in buying in bulk we’d be happy to work with you to help personalize a piece for you and your shop. By offering this new service we’re ensuring that there’s no product wastage and that we’re providing reliable work for our artisans.
Keep an eye out on our website for our Wholesale Form in the upcoming months! (and email us directly at huaywasi@lightandleadership.org for requests now :) )
We’re excited to take action on our resolutions as the year progresses and look forward to keeping our Huaywasi customers updated and part of the conversation. If you have any feedback on ways we can improve or other companies think serve as good guides in the ethical movement, we’d love to continue the conversation in the comments below!
Writers & Contributors: Julie James & Jillian Schneider
]]>As winter commences in the Northern Hemisphere and you find yourself searching daily flights to anywhere warm, we hope the following Peruvian destinations tempt you enough to hit that buy button on a flight to Peru. Each spot is personally recommended by Huaywasi/LLI staff, international volunteers, and local volunteers! (Bonus: 2 of these places are simple day trips from Lima!)
1. Matucana
Catherine, our Holiday Event planner, has been back in Huaycán for the third time this year and has spent considerable time in Peru with both LLI and studying.
“As someone who doesn't go for hikes regularly, I often struggle to find ones in Peru that are at a low enough elevation, incline and distance for my lifestyle. That's why I was so excited when I discovered Matucana, Peru. Located 4 hours from Lima, a quiet mountain town serves as the perfect base for this picturesque 2-kilometer trek that leads to a waterfall!”
The LLI and Huaywasi team often go on small day trips to Matucana to enjoy a peaceful and easy hike and to escape Peru’s busy capital Lima.
2. Laguna Azul, Sauce
Our Women’s Program Manager, Jess, has been in Peru for more than two years now. She says:
“It's so hard to think of my favourite place I've visited in Peru, because there are so many! But I think my favourite is Laguna Azul, in Sauce. It is in the jungle, just outside of Tarapoto. Such a beautiful, peaceful lake!”
Tarapoto can easily be reached by airplane from Lima and it takes 1 hour and 25 minutes to get there.
3. Callao Monumental
Caroline, our Teen Program manager, arrived at the end of September and told us:
“I haven't seen much of Peru yet but one of my favorite places in Lima so far has been the area of Callao Monumental. Casa Fugaz has a bunch of interesting art and photography exhibitions and the rooftop has great views of Callao!”
Callao is often only known as the district where Lima’s international airport is located, or as a dangerous area. However, Callao Monumental and La Punta are beautiful hidden gems where you can forget the craziness of the city (Just be careful with your possessions on your commute there!)
4. Arequipa
Eva, Huaywasi’s Business Communications intern, arrived in Lima at the end of August and likes to travel as much as she can. Her favorite place in Peru is the region of Arequipa.
“In addition to the beautiful Colca Canyon (the second deepest canyon in the world), the region has so much to offer. From salt terraces to Vicuña-protected national parks and beautiful hidden waterfalls, there is something for every traveler in Arequipa. Take your time there to explore the region or even climb one of the three volcanoes that surround the city!”
Arequipa, the White City, is the second biggest city in Peru, after Lima. The historic center is small and has a colonial feeling to it, but around the city are a lot of farms where many different types of potatoes grow.
5. Cajamarca
Rodrigo, our local volunteer who teaches English to teens, finds that Cajamarco is better than Cusco.
“There is a lot of history in the city and you can find a lot of museums as well. When the Spanish conquered the Incan emperor Atahualpa in 1532, he offered them a room full of gold to let him live. In Cajamarca you can still see that room. The landscapes around Cajamarca are also beautiful. I like playing video games and the landscapes looked somewhat like games I used to play.”
The Cajamarca highlands are located in the north of Peru (the northern province of Cajamarca borders with Ecuador), with the left side of the region boasting beaches and the right side housing the jungle. You can reach Cajamarca from Lima by flying a little over an hour or a 16 hour bus.
6. Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley
Our Huaywasi manager, Jill, has been living in Peru for a year and a half and tries to travel to a new place every holiday she gets.
“An area that many times gets overlooked or rushed through is the Sacred Valley because of its proximity to Cusco and Machu Picchu. The Sacred Valley has so much to offer in terms of cozy towns, beautiful scenery, and enduring cultures where many natives still speak Quechua. Thus far, my favorite town within Sacred Valley has been Ollantaytambo because it is quiet and has well preserved ruins that you could explore for hours. Slow down your trip and take a week to explore the Sacred Valley if you can, I cannot wait to return and explore other towns within it.”
Ollantaytambo is located about 95 km outside of Cusco and can be easily accessible through public transportation called ‘colectivos’ in Peru.
We hope these Peruvian spots have inspired you to pick up your passport this holiday season or in 2020. Machu Picchu is without a doubt an unforgettable experience to enjoy while you’re here, but we hope you can check out more of these hidden treasures above as you travel!
]]>The Holidays are coming faster than ever and we all know the struggle of finding the perfect gifts. Use our holiday gift guide to make buying ethical and sustainable easier this season!
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1. For Him
Whether it’s your brother, uncle, boyfriend, or dad, we all know that gifts for men are more difficult to find than for women. We think that our Zachary Cowlneck fits every style and age and is perfect to keep him warm as winter approaches!
Want to show a little more love? Pair our cowlneck with the Matt+Nat Vegan Leather Card Holder! They keep wallets simple, classy, and functional at an affordable price.
2. For the Moms and Grandma’s
We all know our moms and grandmothers love to have the whole family come together around the holidays, decorating their homes to create a warm Christmas ambiance full of love and laughter. Help them out this season by gifting our Christmas ornaments - each handcrafted with love by Saida. Using our bundle deal to buy all 4 colors, you get a 20% discount and keep one for yourself too!
Add on a nice winter candle to compliment the ornaments for an extra cosy living room with the Terralite Woodlands Candle-- keeping the smell of Christmas pine needles around the house all year around.
3. For your Bestie
Our besties deserve the best, which means we want them to to stay warm and fashionable in the worst winter storms! Our cute Ayacucho Headwrap made from 100% alpaca yarn will keep her/his ears protected while looking cute and classy.
The headwraps are available in three colors and can be paired with other knitwear from our collection. These Terra Gold Hoops from Purpose Jewelry form a beautiful combination while wearing the headwrap to treat your bestie a little more.
4. For your Environmentally Responsible Friend
The Chan Chan wristlet is a useful addition to every wardrobe: a small but practical purse created to fit the essentials- cell phone, cards, and keys.
This wristlet was made by Herminia from upcycled suede in an old collection dress that we never put into production! Pairing a warm tela andina pattern with the camel colored suede produced the perfect ethical and sustainable bag.
Want to take sustainability a step further? We think the Sea Shell (Mandala Edition) Pela Case and the Chan Chan wristlet are the perfect match!
5. For the Yogi in Your Life
We all have that friend that convinces you to try yoga with her/him :) Start her/his 2020 off right by gifting them one of our tela andina yoga bags--a cute and practical way to carry your mats to your favorita yoga spots! Also, shop our Yogi Bundle at the bottom of our yoga bag product pages to add on a Torito Heaband for just $4!
If your Yogi Friend exercises Vinyasa or Hot Yoga, this beautiful prAna Hand Towel provides grip and moisture-wicking effectiveness to her/his practice to complete the perfect yogi lover gift set.
6. For Your Work Christmas Exchange
Also always stuck on what to give to your coworker or boss? Can’t go wrong with our Llamita ornaments! They will suit everyone’s tree. When you buy 3 or more, you get 15% off to gift the whole collection or make 3 different people happy! (See bottom of product pages for details)
A great matching gift would be this Society6 Alpaca Coffee Mug to keep it fun in the office.
7. For Your Favorite Aunt
Whether it’s your Mom’s sister, Dad’s sister or aunt of your significant other, we all have our favorite aunt and Christmas is the perfect time of the year to show your love! We have picked out our lovely Daria Invierno Tote Bag, and for just $5 more you can add on the matching coin purse, because who doesn't love a matching bag and wallet? Check it out in Cranberry or Charcoal! (See bottom of product pages for details)
Know that your aunt already has too many wallets to count? No problem! We found this beautiful artisan made Alpine Beak Bracelet Set by Thistle Farms to complete the gift.
8. For the Chocolate Lover in Your Life
Virtually everyone loves a good piece of chocolate around the holidays, which makes this next combo an easy gift to give anybody (including yourself!). Our new Daria Clutch in Raspberry Chocolate color can be used for more than just cosmetics. Add in a special treat by filling it with Tony's Chocolonely Dark Milk Pretzel Toffee!
At Huaywasi HQ we love Tony’s Chocolonely chocolate because it combines two of the best things in life: Deliciousness and Fair Trade! Who wouldn’t love this gift?
9. Your College or Recently Graduated Daughter
Treat your conscious-minded daughter to our sustainably and ethically made 100% alpaca Huancayo collection this season— we promise she’ll thank you! Also, when you buy Huancayo Headband and Gloves together for the price of $75, you’ll save over 25%! (See bottom of product pages for details).
Want to add on a thoughtful/playful read on growing up to keep her engaged over holiday break? Add on a Huaywasi HQ favorite: Am I There Yet? By Mari Andrews
10. Last but Not Least: A Little Bit For Yourself and A Little Bit For Someone Else
We made this amazing knitwear offer so you could treat yourself while treating your loved ones. We all know self-care is important, especially around the stress of the holiday season, which is why we decided to make it a little easier for you! Our 100% alpaca yarn Arequipa Beanie and Fingerless Gloves are perfect to give together, or to simply keep one item for yourself! Buy them as a set and we’ll give you 30% off! (See bottom of product pages for details).
We hope these gift ideas can keep you inspired to give ethically this holiday season. Write us below to let us know your favorite brands or gifts that you’re looking forward to gifting!
Happy Holidays from the Huaywasi Team!
]]>What Being #WasiMade Means in the Fair Trade World
]]>As Fair Trade month is upon us, we wanted to take the opportunity to talk more about what Fair Trade means to the Huaywasi family. There are a lot of terms thrown around in the ethical fashion industry, so we first wanted to clarify the definition of fair trade. Though there are many definitions floating around the Internet, here is a concise definition from the World Fair Trade Organization that we like:
“Fair Trade is a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers – especially in the South”.
To help further clarify, we’ve also outlined some fair trade myths as outlined by the Fair Trade Federation:
Fair trade is not meant to pay workers in foreign countries North American wages
Fair trade is not meant to be a form of charity. Producers and artisans are skilled at their craft, and fair trade organizations and businesses allow the supply chain to be shortened to that these artisans are receiving a greater share of the product’s profit
Still a little confused? Luckily, the World Fair Trade Organization has further outlined ten fair trade principles to explain things in a more clear way. Read below to educate yourself about these principles and see how here at Huaywasi we abide by them!
Huaywasi was formed as a way to bring more financial security to women in the community where our larger non-profit LLI serves. Huaycan is a lower socioeconomic community outside of Lima where many immigrants from different areas in Peru have settled to find a better life closer to the capital city.
As mentioned in our previous blog, when our Women’s Program within LLI started workshops in different areas around Huaycan, many women approached our team to say they had the artisan skills they needed but did not have access to a market where they could be profitable. That’s when the idea for Huaywasi was formed.
Continuing to push this idea of opening doors for artisans, Huaywasi is committed to finding local wholesalers and fair opportunities here in Lima to provide an even greater advantage for each artisan depending on what their goals are.
From the start at Huaywasi, we have always prioritized accountability for our artisans. WTFO states within this principle:
“It (the fair trade business) is accountable to all its stakeholders and respects the sensitivity and confidentiality of commercial information supplied.”
As part of Huaywasi and LLI’s guiding principles, we take the sensitivity of the artisans very seriously. We do not post any pictures of artisans (or LLI participants) on personal social accounts, and we have participants and parents sign waivers to allow pictures of them/their kids on our official social accounts.
Furthermore within Huaywasi, we have monthly meetings where we discuss a wide range of topics, including a “question of the month” where we ask the artisans more about themselves or their work. Though we understand the importance of our customers knowing the makers behind their products, there is a fine balance between knowledge and an invasion of privacy, which we take very seriously. We make it very clear that the artisans do not have to answer any of these questions if they don’t feel comfortable, and keep the questions mostly work related.
These monthly meetings provide open communication between the artisans and the operations team, which have led to collaborative discussions such as production schedules, wage raises, and future management decisions.
Still, full transparency within the supply chain process is an ongoing challenge that Huaywasi is currently tackling in a more aggressive manner. We have been carefully tracking our 2019 finances in detail in order to show our customers where every dollar of their purchase is coming from.
Our full report will be released in 2020, but for now we wanted to share a small preview based on product pricing information already collected:
We’re proud to price our products more heavily on the labor cost and effort artisans put into each piece, and we continue to take that into account in our future collections.
Within this principle there are many fair trade practices that can be adhered to by the organization and the artisans. WTFO states:
“Fair Trade buyers, recognising the financial disadvantages faced by Producers and Suppliers of FT products, ensure orders are paid on receipt of documents or as mutually agreed”
Huaywasi always ensures that artisans receive their monthly pay within a week of delivering their order (allowing time for quality control and pay calculation based on the hours they turn in), and in most cases is less than 3 business days. If the artisan needs a portion of their pay the day they bring their delivery due to unforeseen expenses, we also provide them what they need the day of.
In addition to timely payments, we have been able to support our artisans as they invest in better machines. Since all of our artisans work from home, it’s important to us that they have the materials they need to be the most successful, whether it be with Huaywasi or in their own personal ventures.
WTFO also says in regards to fair trade practices:
“Buyers consult with suppliers before cancelling or rejecting orders. Where orders are cancelled through no fault of producers or suppliers, adequate compensation is guaranteed for work already done.”
We take artisan compensation for work they are completing on Huaywasi’s watch very seriously, which is why we pay them for every hour they’ve contributed to a product, whether it goes into final production or not. This includes samples and unfinished products due to unforeseen complications on any side, whether it be operation & design teams or artisans.
WTFO continues on this principle:
“The organisation maintains long term relationships based on solidarity, trust and mutual respect that contribute to the promotion and growth of Fair Trade. It maintains effective communication with its trading partners.”
Over half of the seven female artisans we currently work with have been part of the Huaywasi family formally or informally for over 8 years, with our “newest” artisan having joined us over 4 years ago. Our bond with these women goes far past the fashion and business, and we trust them with creating beautiful pieces on their own time and in their own house.
WTFO categorizes fair payment into three different sections: Fair Prices, Fair Wages, and Local Living Wage.
Fair Prices
“A Fair Price is freely negotiated through dialogue between the buyer and the seller and is based on transparent price setting. It includes a fair wage and a fair profit”
Though we pay artisans based on hours rather than each product, we do factor the wage that they were paid as an indicative factor of how to price products, along with other factors such as raw materials, shipping, wholesale prices, etc.
According to the Clean Clothes Campaign, average wages rarely exceed 3% of the final cost of what you pay for a piece of clothing at retail stores. At Huaywasi, we want artisan wages to account for much more, with our 2019 Fall/Winter collection having labor costs account for between 14 - 42% of the final cost.
Fair Wages & Local Living Wage
“A Fair Wage is an equitable, freely negotiated and mutually agreed wage, and presumes the payment of at least a Local Living Wage. A Local Living Wage is remuneration received for a standard working week (no more than 48 hours) by a Worker in a particular place, sufficient to afford a decent standard of living for the Worker and her or his family.”
As stated above, we pay our artisans an hourly wage per product they create. Peru normally posts minimum wages not based by hour but by month, and currently in 2019, the minimum wage is S/ 930 (Peruvian soles) per month.
Based on WageIndicator.org, a standard family living wage in Peru including two kids is $318.80 USD, or about S/ 1070 soles per month. From this amount, we divide this by 4 weeks, and then by the normal Peruvian work week of 48 hours, which produces a wage of S/ 5.36 soles per hour.
We’re proud to say we pay our artisans more than this hourly living wage wage, as we know based on seasonal fluctuation and customer demand the artisans may not be fulfilling enough hours with orders to consider Huaywasi a full time job. Furthermore, many artisans have primary jobs such as Alejandra, who owns a flower shop with her husband and is able to knit for Huaywasi while she manages the shop.
This principle is pretty obvious in terms of Huaywasi, but to further elaborate on “forced labor”, we take care to ensure our artisans aren’t producing something too elaborate for their machines or too complicated to where it becomes a nightmare for them to produce.
We want our artisans to be happy while doing their craft and learning new things along the way, but when certain sample products are taking too much exhausted effort, we scrap the idea for the sanity and happiness of the artisans. Keeping open communication with them in terms of product design is key.
Female empowerment and development is one of the core values of Huaywasi’s origin and continues to be our mission. As our project originated from our parent non-profit organization’s Women’s Empowerment Program, its purpose has always been to funnel profits back into this program as the program continues to thrive and expand in the Huaycan community. Something unique about Huaywasi as a fair trade fashion project is that we still very much operate under a 501(c)3 mission-based organization. This means that after artisan wages, shipping, overhead, raw materials, administration, and marketing expenses, all excess profits are channeled back into LLI, specifically within the Women’s Empowerment Program. Currently, the WP is focused on Mujeres Emprendedoras (Women Entrepreneurs), which is a 3 month entrepreneurship program held for free for women over the age of 18 in Huaycán who want to start or improve their own small businesses. Women learn hard skills, such as how to develop a business plan, how to track their own finances, how to create an excel document - as well as soft skills: strategies for self-confidence, developing a captivating business elevator pitch, and the importance of customer service skills.
In 2018, 60% of the graduated women now have their own business, with 40% of them starting the business after completing the course. By buying Huaywasi, our customers are helping us attain this goal of elevating Mujeres Emprendedoras even further to reach more women and advance their course plan.
Another unique advantage for the artisans is that they are fully able to work from home on their own schedule and their own time. With the average amount of time Limeños spend in public transportation climbing to 95 minutes every day, the artisans are happy to be cutting out that low productivity time. Additionally, they are able to take care of their children and families and avoid hiring a nanny, a common practice among Peruvian dual-earning households.
We provide the artisans with raw materials that they are able to pick up from our office and from there, they are able to complete their monthly orders whenever they see fit. We also allow circumstantial flexibility of order delivery dates due to unforeseen complications such as health or family issues, or a late delivery of raw materials from our operations team.
Regarding this principle, WTFO states: “The organisation develops the skills and capabilities of its own employees or members. Organisations working directly with small producers develop specific activities to help these producers improve their management skills, production capabilities and access to markets” As stated above, our artisans are encouraged (many have already completed) our Mujeres Emprendadores program to improve their entrepreneurship skills, as well as the additional classes the Women’s Empowerment Program offers including tech and English classes. Furthermore, through our Fashion Designer internship program, we love our artisans and designers to collaborate on patterns and learn new techniques or practices that they are able to put into use in the future. “Lo que más me gusta de sen artesana es aprender de cada uno de los voluntarias que vienen y te enseñan cosas que yo como artesana no sabía y me gusta mucho aprender” What I like most about being an artisan is to learn from each of the volunteers who come and teach you things that I as an artisan didn't know and I like to learn a lot. -Elena, a Huaywasi seamstress
In some cases, artisans have even been able to learn new skills to increase their product offering, such as Herminia collaborating with a screenprinting and digital design company in Lima to perfect the use of a new screenprinting machine. Lastly, an initiative we’re looking forward to starting this year includes engaging artisans in the sales of their own products through partnerships with fairs and pop-ups in Lima.
Our team does also stress the transparency of the connection between fair trade and charity. Though our project is technically part of a larger non-profit organization, buying a Huaywasi product is not a form of charity to these artisans, but rather a way to empower them through their skills and crafts in a responsible way. We believe the Fair Trade community is collaborative, inclusive, and stronger in numbers :) Through our membership to Chicago Fair Trade, we have committed ourselves to growing the Fair Trade presence in the Chicagoland area and beyond, and we love seeing this community continue to flourish.
Though 100% sustainable fabrics from ethical companies are extremely expensive to source in Peru, we do try to maximize our usage of native Peruvian fabrics, such as national viscose, Pima cotton, and colorful tela andina, which decreases the environmental impact through international transport and also boosts the Peruvian economy. Since the beginning of 2019, we have also strived to produce at least one upcycled product per season. Thus far, we have repurposed some unreleased suede dresses to create the Carina Tank in SS19 and Chan Chan Wristlet in FW19. We are continuing to make upcycling and recycling a priority as we have just completed a full inventory check this month of what fabrics and materials artisans have available so that we are better able to brainstorm ideas for repurposing. Furthermore, allowing artisans to work from home and creating handmade products does reduce energy consumption and minimizes overall greenhouse gas emissions. Lastly, our packaging is eco-friendly: we utilize no plastic and wrap items in either paper (often recycled from other shipments) and/or a reusable tote. Our product tags are made of paper. Ceramics are placed in cotton reusable drawstring bags.
The Bottom Line
Huaywasi is continuously working towards the initiatives discussed above as we evolve. We strive every day to run our brand through fair trade values which in the end provide a better life for the seven artisans we work with. Many of our customers have asked about further fair trade certifications or member organizations. In actuality, there are some certifications that Huaywasi does not qualify for based on the requirement that you have to be a for-profit business to be a member/certified. But in further transparency, most of these certifications and organizations are expensive to apply to and many remain expensive through yearly membership fees. As we steadily grow, we want our main focus in profits to be exactly what we stated above, investing back into our community programs, rather than using those financials to apply for certifications. Nevertheless, we still nourish our partnership with Chicago Fair Trade and improve upon these fair trade principles to the fullest extent. At Huaywasi, the ideologies behind fair trade were truly the seeds that rooted our brand and mission, and we cannot wait to continue to watch them grow.
We would love answering any further questions you guys have around our practices or fair trade in general--let’s continue the conversation in the comments below!
]]>An honest conversation about Huaywasi knitwear
]]>As our Fall Winter 2019 collection has officially launched, we decided to dive into a recurring conversation we have been having with customers around our knitwear, and more directly, why its price point is somewhat (let’s be honest: sometimes much) higher than that of our other products. If you’re wondering why our Huancayo headbands cost more than most of our shirts, we’re here to help clear up some confusion :) We’re hoping this article can help customers better understand our knit prices based on two simple principles.
If you think more about the steps and tools used to go from raw materials to a finished product at Huaywasi, you almost always run into a machine intended to help an artisan, whether that be sewing machines, looms, kilns, screenprinting irons, etc. With knitwear, you simply have a pair of knitting needles and the strong, capable hands of our artisan partners Alejandra and Nélida.
When your hands take on the work of a machine, the bottleneck in the process becomes time. Of course knitting by hand takes more time than machine knitting. At Huaywasi we don’t see that necessarily as a bottleneck, but more as a testament to the uniqueness, quality, and artisan dedication put into every piece.
Take our Alejandra Blanket Scarf for example. This scarf is not only our most expensive piece of knitwear we’ve launched this year, but most likely one of the most expensive products we’ve launched in our history, retailing at $208. This might at first glance seem unreasonable for an accessory, but digging deeper into the time spent on the piece you may change your opinion.
Alejandra spent a total of 49 hours to complete that scarf alone (yes, that is over a full week of work!). Our hats, gloves, and headbands on average take Alejandra and Nélida about 9 hours per piece to complete, with scarves averaging higher.
We base our prices heavily on how much we pay our artisan partners, which in turn is based on how much of their time they invest into each product. Does that blanket scarf price tag make a little more sense now? In our opinion, it definitely does!
With 2019 knitwear being our second year of exclusively using 100% alpaca yarn, we wanted to share a little background on why alpaca fibers have so many benefits, thus explaining the higher price per cone.
We work with two Peruvian yarn suppliers: Michell and Itessa, both of which are committed to sustainable and ethical production practices. The process of shearing alpaca is extremely ethical compared to other wools and cashmere fibers. An alpaca is shorn once per year in late spring, which provides Peruvian farmers with a valuable source of income. And not to worry, alpacas don’t mind being shorn, it actually helps them to avoid heat stress in summer, commonly referred to as a “cosmetic procedure”.
It is in the farmers’ best interests to let the alpacas live as long as possible in good conditions so they can regrow their wool. Alpacas roam freely most of the year in the Andes, only being captured and gently sheared to be re-released.
Alpaca fiber has been used in Peru for centuries, seen as “the Gold of the Andes” by the ancient Incas, and still remains as an important cultural symbol in the Andes Mountains. Today, Peru accounts for more than 80% of the world’s alpaca population, accumulating a stimulating, economically prosperous industry for more than 120,000 families.
The cherry(s) on top of all of this? Alpaca fiber is warmer, stronger, lighter and softer than other competitors such as cashmere and merino wool. It doesn’t shrink or pill, is hypo-allergenic and odor-resistant, and has the largest color range of almost any natural fiber!
Bringing together all of these amazing qualities creates a sustainable, luxurious thread, and although it’s pricier than synthetic alternatives, Huaywasi believes it is a critical step for our brand towards a greener future with our ever-present commitment to high quality.
Huaywasi’s artisanal touch coupled with the best yarn in the market does not come without a price. We are happy to announce that we have slightly lowered prices this year without undervaluing the artisan’s work (Check out our Ayacucho headwraps for just $34!). We hope the points above helped to educate and explain our prices in a more real way, as we are always striving to keep both our customers and artisans happy!
Check out our latest knitwear collection here and join the conversation below as we would love to continue the open discourse!
Writers & Contributors: Eva Leek and Jill Schneider
]]>Welcome to Huaywasi’s Summer 2019 Line!
]]>7 WOMEN + FAIR WAGES + EDUCATION = HUAYWASI
In honor of International Women’s Day and Women’s History Month, we are celebrating the progress Huaywasi has made by sharing our complete timeline and history with you.
Huaywasi formed as a branch of the Women’s Empowerment Program at the Light and Leadership Initiative, a 501(c)3 nonprofit in Huaycán, Peru.
The following information was collected by an interview with Lara DeVries, the founder of the Light and Leadership Initiative, the parent organization to what would later become Huaywasi: Handmade in Peru. Various other contributors include past and present Huaywasi Program Directors. All quotes, unless otherwise noted, are from Lara.
Keep reading to see how far this group of women has come, how we have grown, and what our goals are for the future.
2007-2009: The Idea
Originally from Tinley Park, Illinois, a suburb of Chicago, Lara visited Peru for the first time in 2007 while she was finishing up college and volunteering in Lima. During her four month stay, she met a family who lived in Huaycan and invited her to visit for lunch.
After returning to the US, she continued to think about this community and had a strong inclination she would return. Lara remained in contact with that family and made a few subsequent visits to Huaycan and Lima between 2007 and 2009.
“During this time I explored the idea of starting a non-profit and then decided it was the direction we wanted to go in.”
Back in Chicago, she began fundraising to start the Light and Leadership Initiative. During a past visit she had held a forum and talked with quite a few community members to better understand what Huaycan could benefit from the most, and with the overwhelming response being education, she decided to move to Peru permanently and set up shop.
She connected with some of the first Light and Leadership employees to help her along the way, and who are consequently still with the organization today, ten years later.
May/June 2009: The Formation
The English program at LLI officially launched for kids and women in two areas of Huaycán. Sports and arts classes followed shortly afterwards.
“English was our first program that we offered to the kids because that was something I felt comfortable doing. I had taught English before, I had taken online courses to help prep for that, I had also tutored extensively, so I felt comfortable to launch that. From there we just built up our kids program.”
2010/2011: The Women’s Program
As the kid’s program begun to grow, a women’s empowerment program started in Huaycan’s Zone Z and Zone D. Lara and other volunteers got to know many of the artisans through free classes and workshops, including some that focused on creating crafts.
In one knitting workshop, the artisans approached Lara and other LLI team members to share that they were not necessarily looking to learn to knit, but rather develop a market to sell products they already had experience making. These products ranged from knitwear to crochet to hand woven pieces.
A group of artisan women naturally formed and they partnered with LLI to begin selling their pieces. LLI would purchase them directly from the artisans to sell at fundraisers for LLI in the U.S. The idea was to make this a profitable market where these women could make a living off their handmade pieces, allowing them to support themselves through their craft and their art.
“Naturally, this spilled over into people telling us, ‘Hey, I know of this craft fair, why don’t you guys sell there? Hey I know of this fair trade business why don’t you guys sell there?’”
2012 - 2015: The Development
As the years went by, the artisanal products continued to sell well at LLI fundraisers, which prompted people to the team more about craft fairs or fair trade businesses that LLI could participate in using these women’s products, in order for them to sell more things to LLI.
“Huaywasi was something that organically formed from the women’s program. LLI didn’t start the women’s program looking to incorporate artisans or incorporate fair trade policies - so that was something that was an unintended consequence/impact, but a very positive one that resulted from honest communication we had built with the women.”
This increased brand awareness eventually allowed the LLI team and artisans to launch the concept of a fair trade brand which is now Huaywasi: Handmade in Peru.
In the beginning years we were working from order to order, without design concepts and cohesive collections. We would dream up a concept of a product and approach the artisan to make it, or we would buy products that the artisans were already making.
For example, Daria’s woven cosmetic bag is her own design that she was already producing, and we are still selling this original bag at Huaywasi today. We believed (and still believe) in the idea that the artisans and their products would resonate to an American market, and we were determined to translate that success into fair financial gains for the women.
“Let’s get money into these artisans hands and let’s do our best to be able to sell these products because we believe that these women are talented and we also believe that there is a market for this.”
We slowly began to build more organization, making our collections cohesive and visiting the artisans to collaborate and share ideas. We now had regular artisan meetings to give updates and form design concepts.
Carina Martin, who was the Women’s Empowerment Program Manager from 2014-2016, was an integral part of standardizing operations, adding other product lines such as ceramics, and also brainstorming our name!
“I came up with the name Huaywasi in late 2014. After trying to brainstorm several options (we wanted something unique when Googled, but still reflective of our program), the team all agreed and liked Huaywasi best! A combination of 'Huay' for Huaycan and the Quechua word 'wasi' meaning home.”
-Carina
With these enhanced operations along with our resolute passion came the desire to become a business member of Chicago Fair Trade in 2016.
“During this process of becoming Chicago Fair Trade, we were also receiving feedback from international LLI volunteers and supporters. Their ideas, such as starting an Etsy shop, and support, such as purchasing our pieces, was the feedback and pressure we needed to know people really were interested in what we’re doing.”
2016 - 2018: The Organization
In 2016, Shelby O’Brien joined the team as the Women’s Program Manager, but she took an interest specifically in the Huaywasi artisans, collaborating with them and believing in them and the brand in order to take the program a step further.
“Huaywasi has always been about the artisans. They are the heart, talent, and inspiration behind the project. Watching the artisans learn and grow together was a really special experience for me as Program Manager. All the little steps - trying out new products, making errors, learning what sells and what doesn't, incorporating new materials and techniques - have really added up to big transformations in the project. When I look back 4 or 5 years ago and see the progress that the artisans have made in both their artistic trades and entrepreneurial knowledge, it's really pretty incredible. I'm consistently amazed by the Huaywasi artisans' talents, and I look forward to seeing what they do next”
-Shelby
Shelby and Lara discussed distribution channels and branding from a more developed business perspective, with the result being Huaywasi.com launching in August 2016. Our logo was generously designed by a remote volunteer graphic designer who truly understood the Huaywasi vision. It’s particularly meaningful for the brand because it’s based off the silhouette of one our artisan partners, Nelida.
“Since 2016 we have been going ever since. Like any project, or any organization, or any company really, there’s a fair share of growing pains.These growing pains have taught us a lot and have made this process so rewarding.”
2019 and beyond: The 5-Year Vision
“We believe in the artisans, their skill level, and the products their producing. All of these things make this process worthwhile and give us confidence in the future. There’s a strong future for what we can achieve with the products and what it could do for the rest of the organization - specifically the women’s empowerment program.”
Moving forward this year, we have many ambitious and exciting goals for both our products and artisans. Starting with our Spring/Summer 2019 collection, one of our most exciting changes is the beginning of our one-of-a-kind upcycled pieces. Any past samples that have unfortunately not been able to be put into production, we try to re-process to create something new along with the help of the artisans’ creative skills. Becoming more sustainable, environmentally and economically, is important to us.
In the future, we would love to hire more full time, Peruvian staff for Huaywasi and LLI as we continue to grow. But as of 2019, we’re thrilled to announce our second artisan pay raise since Huaywasi was founded! We want to ensure that artisans are receiving enough economic support to where they feel comfortable and confident enough in their financial progress to support their families and other endeavors/goals in their personal lives.
“I want the artisans to think of Huaywasi not just as a job, but an opportunity to pursue whatever goals they have in their professional and personal lives. If there is a way to make resources available to them (new skills, financial stability, entrepreneurship opportunities, etc.) to achieve something they otherwise thought wasn’t possible, then I think Huaywasi has accomplished an incredible goal. Huaywasi is and always has been rooted in a desire for women to pursue their dreams and learn from one another--whether an artisan, intern, designer, or manager--and this constant symbiotic relationship I think will continue to drive its success.”
-Jill, current Huaywasi Program Manager
Our long-term goal for Huaywasi is to make LLI a more sustainable organization in terms of funding. In Huaywasi’s 5 year plan, the profits from the artisan’s products will filter back into the Women’s Program.
We want to see the project grow because we know there are a lot of positive things that will come with that, but there are still some logistical challenges we need to work through in terms of where the artisans want to go in the future.
We’ve had discussions on if we do grow, do any of them want to move into management, or extend their role, for example, to complete orders and lead operations, or start involving more women in supporting roles. These are ongoing discussions that we’re having with the artisans that continue to keep Huaywasi an open and inviting environment to learn. Growing and scaling a business is something we’re taking one day at a time and we want to ensure it’s done with the right intent for the artisans and brand.
“The toughest thing to convey about Huaywasi is that each artisan does have a background and does have a story and we all know them personally; this isn’t just another company that is shipping things out from a factory or anything like that. We’re very much a close knit and small scale project and there’s a lot of cool things to come from that.”
So as of now, we’re excited to show you what we’ve been working on for our Spring/Summer 2019 collection and we hope you continue to follow us on and offline. This year we’re working hard to cement our local Chicagoland presence, starting with Huaywasi being represented by Lara at monthly fair trade fairs/events as of April. Keep an eye out for us! :)
A final note from from Lara:
“It’s been amazing to see not only this project grow, but all of us women evolve into better versions of ourselves, myself included. Building this type of community among us has been something I have cherished. I now view community as something so powerful for women anywhere. I’m grateful to have the chance to work with such talented and inspiring women— how cool is my job?!?”
-Lara
How you can get involved to make these Huaywasi goals a reality?
Come intern with us! We love volunteers to come to Peru, but we also have remote opportunities. Join us for design, photography and business development opportunities!
Support our artisans by purchasing their pieces from our website
Become a volunteer in Chicago and help sell our products at fairs
Writers & Contributors: Sarah Sparkman & Jill Schneider
Mariel tells us she was inspired by a skirt created by a Bohemian fashion designer, whom she reached out to and was given the designer’s blessing to use the design as a base for the Mariel skirt. Her goal was a Bohemian festival look with the floor length slitted skirt, combined with a touch of Peruvian flair using an Andean fabric patch on the side.
Mariel told us that this skirt was special as it was one of her first samples she owned while interning with Huaywasi. She created the pattern herself, and wrote step-by-step instructions in Spanish to bring both the pattern and the skirt to life. But what truly gives the skirt unique meaning to her was the communication and trust built between herself and our artisan, Guillermina.
“Fair trade should always be collaborative between the designer and artisan—and the artisan should feel she has a safe place to speak her mind.”
Instead of simply giving Guillermina a picture of what she wanted the skirt to look like and waiting for her to create a sample, Mariel worked together with her using her written instructions and traveling to the artisan’s home 2-3 times a week to create various samples of the skirt and ensure the finalized piece was exactly what both had envisioned. This inspired confidence in Guillermina to voice her opinion and ideas on design, as well as helped Mariel learn new sewing and construction techniques, many of which were passed down to the artisans through mothers, grandmothers, and influential women in the community.
What was the most significant take-away from interning with Huaywasi??
As Mariel was describing her time spent with the artisans living in the Huaycán community, a common theme kept emerging.
“Women have this inherent connection despite all cultural differences.”
Memories that Mariel cherish most are those spent with the artisans talking and laughing about normal everyday topics. Whether they were all traveling together to Gamarra (the largest clothing and textile market in Peru), or spending time in the artisans’ homes, the bond created between the designers and artisans went further than a business partnership, they were family. This sense of community and togetherness built by women empowering women is what continues to drive Huaywasi forward today!
We are so excited to announce that our umbrella non-profit organization, the Light and Leadership Initiative (LLI), is celebrating its ninth year of educating, empowering, and bringing change to the community of Huaycán outside Lima, Peru. Huaywasi actually began as an extension of the Women’s Empowerment programs offered through LLI!
Through the collaborative work of Huaywasi and LLI, we have seen some tremendous progress this last year, including implementing certification courses to the Women’s Empowerment Program, which were funded directly through our artisan project, with emphases on finance, technology, and entrepreneurship. We were also able to introduce a beautiful, new, larger classroom space for the children’s and women’s programs and saw attendance rates rise in both the teen's and women’s programs.
The focus of this anniversary celebration is to highlight the accomplishments of the students of each program, as well as strengthen our ties to the Huaycán community. This year, the Light and Leadership Initiative is hosting its 9th anniversary on June 3rd and the theme is Candy Land. We will be providing interactive games and activities for the children and women as our teens are volunteering throughout the day. We will also be distributing various awards and prizes for students (great leadership, positive attitude, new participant, etc.) to recognize their achievements over the past year!
We invite you to help us celebrate these amazing women, children, and teens by donating to our fundraiser. These donations will go directly to help fund the event as well as ensure that every single participant receives an annual anniversary t-shirt. These t-shirts help further connect us to the community and are cherished by participants who are often seen wearing them all-year round. This year, the t-shirt has been designed by one of the LLI teen participants, Angela, and will be brought to life by our very own Huaywasi artisans, Guillermina and Herminia!
Thank you for continuing to support our artisans and the Huaycán community!
]]>Aji de gallina is a delicious Peruvian classic. It's a slightly spicy, bright yellow and rich creamy sauce made with chicken.
Ingredients:
If you can't find aji amarillo peppers, substitute it with a hot chile pepper and add a yellow bell pepper for color.
Recipe:
Enjoy!
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